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2011–2023 Dodge Charger

2011-2023 Dodge Charger — Tire Pressure & Rotation

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 45-75 minutes $10 DIY

Save $70 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $80

Quick answer: Tire Pressure & Rotation on a 2011–2023 Dodge Charger is rated Moderate and takes about 45-75 minutes. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $10. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$10.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Valve-stem caps or replacement TPMS service parts only if inspection requires them — $10.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Check all four pressures cold

Work on a cold Charger — parked 3+ hours or driven under a mile. Read the door-jamb placard for front/rear pressures, press a quality gauge squarely onto each stem, and record all four. Note any tire much lower than the rest; investigate a slow leak.

2

Inflate or bleed to the door-jamb spec

Never use the sidewall maximum — it's a load limit, not the operating pressure. Refit all four caps snugly, and eyeball tread and sidewalls for nails, cuts, bulges, or uneven wear a rotation won't fix.

3

Rotate using the forward-cross pattern

Read every sidewall first — Scat Pack and SRT Chargers often run wider rears (like 245 front / 275 rear) that can't rotate front-to-back. On a staggered setup, rotate side-to-side only, and only if the tires are non-directional.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

The 245-front/275-rear stagger on Scat Packs is where DIY rotations go wrong — those rears will never go on the front. I read the sidewalls before the jack goes under, not after the car's already in the air.

4

Chock, loosen, and jack up

Level ground, chock the wheels staying down, loosen lug nuts a quarter turn before lifting. Jack at proper points onto rated stands — never under a jack alone. Recheck after ~50 miles.

5

Let the TPMS auto-relearn on a drive

The Charger's TPMS relearns automatically — inflate all four to the door-jamb pressure, then drive above 15 mph for 10–20 minutes; the system memorizes each sensor in its new position and the light goes out. If it stays on, recheck each pressure cold.

6

Check the spare or mobility kit, if equipped

Compact spare: inflate to the sidewall-molded pressure and confirm the jack and lug wrench are present and functional. Mobility kit: confirm the sealant is sealed and in date and the inflator powers up. Never exceed the compact spare's speed and distance limits.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

A sealant bottle with a date on it is a use-it-before date, not a suggestion — expired sealant won't foam when you need it. I check the date every rotation and replace the kit before it's stale.

7

Test drive and verify

Drive 10–15 minutes at neighborhood and highway speeds; note steering pull, vibration, or tire noise. Confirm the TPMS light is off. Next morning, recheck all four pressures cold and correct any drift. Log the date and mileage, and repeat at the owner's-manual interval.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Inflating to the sidewall maximum instead of placard PSI
  • • Using the wrong rotation pattern for directional or staggered tires
  • • Relying on an impact gun without final torque verification
  • • Assuming a TPMS light clears when a tire or sensor is damaged