2020–2026 Mazda CX-30
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $134 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $174
Quick answer: Oil and Filter Change on a 2020–2026 Mazda CX-30 is rated Easy and takes about 30–60 minutes. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $40. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| 0W-20 full synthetic engine oil (approx. 5.1 US quarts) | — | $26.00 | |
| Spin-on oil filter (Mazda PE01-14-302 or equivalent) | PE01-14-302 | $13.00 | |
| Oil drain plug crush washer (aluminum) | — | $1.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Drive the CX-30 for 5 to 10 minutes, or idle it for 2 to 3 minutes, so the 0W-20 oil is warm and flows freely. Warm oil drains far faster and carries more sludge and contaminants out with it.
Lift the front of the CX-30 with a floor jack using the front subframe jacking point, then set two jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds and lower the car onto them. Ramps also work well on the CX-30 since it sits relatively low. Never crawl under a car supported only by a jack, and give the vehicle a firm shake to confirm it is stable before you go underneath.
Quick word from someone who's been under there: I never crawl under a car on just a jack — I give it a firm shake to confirm it's stable first.
Look under the front of the engine for the plastic underbody cover with a small removable access door, or remove the fasteners holding the panel section in place. The drain plug and the spin-on oil filter on the CX-30 are both accessed through this panel. Removing only the access section instead of the whole splash shield keeps the job quick and avoids breaking extra clips.
I've seen this exact mistake come through the shop: Removing only the access section instead of the whole splash shield keeps the job quick and avoids breaking extra clips.
Position a drain pan directly under the oil drain plug on the aluminum oil pan and loosen the plug with an 8mm Allen socket, finishing by hand while pressing inward so oil does not run down your arm. Let the oil drain until it slows to an occasional drip, which usually takes 10 to 15 minutes on the CX-30. A complete drain is what actually resets the oil condition, so do not rush this step.
Small thing, big difference: I let it drain a full 10 to 15 minutes — a complete drain is what actually resets the oil condition.
The spin-on oil filter on the CX-30 threads onto the side of the oil pan area at a slight angle, so move the drain pan under it and loosen it with a 65mm 14-flute cup wrench or a strap wrench. Unscrew it by hand the rest of the way, keeping the open end up so the oil trapped inside does not spill across the underbody. Wipe the filter mounting boss clean with a rag so the new gasket seals against bare metal.
Dip your finger in fresh 0W-20 and coat the new filter's rubber O-ring, then spin it on by hand until the gasket contacts the boss and give it another three-quarter turn, which is tight enough to seal without crushing the gasket. Fit a new aluminum crush washer on the drain plug and reinstall the plug, snugging it firmly but not gorilla-tight since the CX-30 uses a soft aluminum oil pan that strips easily. Double-check that the old filter gasket is not stuck to the boss, because a double gasket will blow out and dump the oil.
Lower the car back onto level ground, place a funnel in the valve-cover filler neck, and pour in fresh 0W-20 full synthetic oil, roughly 5.1 US quarts with a filter change on the 2.5L SkyActiv-G. Reinstall the filler cap, start the engine for 30 seconds, then shut it off and wait two minutes for the oil to settle. Pull the dipstick, wipe it, reinsert it fully, and confirm the level sits at the full mark, topping up in small increments if needed.
Start the engine again and let it idle while you look underneath for any drips at the drain plug and filter, then shut it off and do one final dipstick check.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2020–2026
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