2006–2009 Mazda Mazda3
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| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| 5W-20 engine oil (approx. 4.4 US quarts for 2.3L, 4.0 quarts for 2.0L; verify with dipstick) | — | — | |
| Cartridge oil filter element with O-ring kit | — | — | |
| Oil drain plug washer | — | — |
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Drive the Mazda3 for about 5 minutes so the 5W-20 oil warms up and drains quickly, then park on a level surface and engage the parking brake. Pop the hood and remove the oil filler cap so air enters the crankcase and the oil flows out freely. A warm drain pulls far more suspended contaminants out than a cold one.
Raise the front of the car with a floor jack on the front subframe and set jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds, then lower the car onto them. The Mazda3 sits fairly low, so ramps are a convenient alternative. Give the car a solid shake before sliding underneath to make sure it cannot move.
The first-generation Mazda3 has a plastic splash shield under the engine held by several 8mm or 10mm bolts and plastic clips, so remove the fasteners and drop the shield to expose the drain plug and oil filter housing. Keep the fasteners in a tray because they are easy to lose. This shield protects the cartridge housing from road debris, so it must go back on when you are done.
Slide a drain pan under the oil drain plug on the oil pan and loosen it with a socket or 8mm Allen key, finishing by hand while pressing the plug inward so oil does not splash. Let the oil drain for a full 10 to 15 minutes until it slows to occasional drips. While it drains, inspect the plug threads for damage or stripped spots.
The MZR engine in this Mazda3 uses a cartridge filter in a plastic housing on the front of the engine, so place the drain pan under it and loosen the housing cap with a 75.6mm 14-flute oil filter wrench. Unscrew the cap slowly, letting the oil in the housing drain down, then pull out the paper filter element and the old O-ring. Wipe the housing and cap clean with a rag.
Seat the new O-ring from the kit into its groove on the housing cap, lightly coat it with fresh oil, and press the new cartridge element into place. Thread the cap back on by hand first to avoid cross-threading the plastic, then snug it with the filter wrench, firm but not over-torqued. Fit a new washer on the drain plug and reinstall it snugly.
Reinstall the splash shield with its bolts and clips, then lower the Mazda3 back onto level ground. Place a funnel in the filler neck and pour in 5W-20, roughly 4.4 US quarts for the 2.3L or 4.0 quarts for the 2.0L, then reinstall the filler cap. Start the engine for 30 seconds to fill the filter housing, shut it off, wait two minutes, and check the dipstick, topping up until the level reaches the full mark.
Let the engine idle while you look underneath for drips at the drain plug and filter housing, then shut it off and do one final dipstick check. The first-generation Mazda3 has no electronic oil life monitor to reset, so simply record the mileage and date in your maintenance log. Recycle the used oil and the old filter element at an auto parts store.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2006–2009
2014–2018
2014–2018
2006–2009
2011–2013
2011–2013