2011–2013 Mazda Mazda3
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| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front brake pad set with shims and hardware clips (for 2010-2013 Mazda3) | — | — | |
| Brake parts cleaner spray | — | — | |
| High-temperature brake caliper grease | — | — | |
| Brake fluid (DOT 3, for topping off if needed) | — | — |
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park the Mazda3 on a flat, level surface, set the parking brake firmly, and chock both rear wheels so the car cannot roll. Loosen the front lug nuts about a quarter turn while the wheels are still on the ground. Gather the new pads, cleaner, and grease before lifting so you are not scrambling mid-job.
Jack up the front of the Mazda3 by the front subframe and set jack stands under the reinforced pinch welds, then remove the lug nuts and take off both front wheels. Working on both front wheels at once keeps the job moving and lets you compare sides. Set the wheels aside face-up so the rims are not scratched.
On the 2010-2013 Mazda3 front caliper, remove the lower caliper guide pin bolt with a 7mm hex socket, then swing the caliper body upward off the pads. If the caliper resists, wiggle it gently rather than prying against the rotor face. Support the caliper with a bungee cord or wire from the strut so its weight never hangs on the brake hose.
Slide the old inner and outer pads out of the caliper bracket and remove the old stainless hardware clips from the bracket rails. Note which pad was inner and which was outer, and check the old pads for uneven wear, which points to a stuck slide pin. Spray the bracket with brake cleaner and scrub the rust and old grease from the pad slide rails.
Pull the caliper slide pins out of the bracket boots, wipe off the old grease, and inspect them for rust or pitting; replace any pin that is scored or stiff. Apply a thin, even coat of high-temperature silicone brake grease to each pin and slide them back into their boots, confirming they glide smoothly. Free-moving pins are what let the caliper center itself and wear both pads evenly.
Use a C-clamp or caliper piston tool to push the caliper piston back into its bore, going slowly and keeping an eye on the brake fluid reservoir under the hood. If the reservoir is already full, siphon a little fluid out first so it does not overflow onto painted surfaces. The piston must be fully retracted for the new, thicker pads to fit over the rotor.
Snap the new stainless hardware clips from the pad kit into the caliper bracket rails, making sure each one seats fully in its notch. Apply a light film of brake grease to the pad backing plates where they touch the clips and the caliper fingers, keeping all grease off the friction material. Set the new pads into the bracket with their shims in place, confirming each one slides freely.
Swing the caliper body back down over the new pads and reinstall the 7mm hex guide pin bolt, tightening it snugly without overtightening. Spin the rotor by hand to confirm it turns freely with only light drag from the new pads. Reinstall the wheel, thread the lug nuts on by hand, and lower the car to the ground before torquing the lugs in a star pattern.
Before driving, pump the brake pedal slowly several times until it firms up, because the first pumps seat the piston against the new pads. Check the brake fluid reservoir level and top off with DOT 3 if needed, then take a gentle test drive with several moderate stops to bed the pads in. Listen for scraping or grinding and recheck the wheel lugs after 50 miles.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2006–2009
2014–2018
2014–2018
2006–2009
2006–2009
2011–2013