Power the Leaf fully off
Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and power the Leaf completely off, then take the key fob out of the cabin. Confirm the instrument cluster is dark before touching anything under the hood.
2018–2025 Nissan Leaf
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $299 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $475
Quick answer: 12V Battery Replacement on a 2018–2025 Nissan Leaf is rated Easy and takes about 20–40 minutes. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $176. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| 12V lead-acid auxiliary battery (match the group size and terminal layout of the original Leaf battery) | — | $176.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park on a level surface, shift to Park, and power the Leaf completely off, then take the key fob out of the cabin. Confirm the instrument cluster is dark before touching anything under the hood.
Open the hood and find the 12V auxiliary battery mounted in the motor compartment on the driver's side. Note how the positive and negative cables are routed and where the hold-down bracket sits.
Remove any plastic battery cover, then loosen the negative (black) terminal clamp nut with a wrench and lift the cable off the post. Disconnecting negative first is the rule because it prevents a short if your wrench accidentally touches body metal while you work.
Loosen the positive (red) terminal clamp nut and lift that cable off its post, keeping it clear of any metal. Note exactly which bolt holes the hold-down uses so the new battery sits in the identical position.
Lift the old lead-acid battery straight up and out of the tray using both hands — it is heavier than it looks, so keep your back straight. Inspect the tray for white or green corrosion and scrub it clean with a battery brush or baking-soda solution. A clean, dry tray prevents the new battery case from sitting in corrosive residue.
Lower the new 12V lead-acid auxiliary battery into the tray in the same orientation as the old one, with the terminals on the correct sides. Reinstall the hold-down bracket or strap and tighten it so the battery cannot rock or slide. A snug hold-down keeps vibration from cracking the battery case or loosening the terminals over time.
Small thing, big difference: I make the hold-down snug so the battery can't slide — I've seen loose batteries crack cases from vibration.
Slide the positive (red) cable onto its post first and tighten the clamp nut firmly, then do the same with the negative (black) cable. Both clamps should be tight enough that you cannot twist them on the posts by hand. Reconnecting in this order mirrors the safe disconnection sequence and avoids accidental shorts.
Close the hood, get in, and power the Leaf on. The instrument cluster should boot normally with no warning lights, and the car should go into Ready mode. Test the headlights, power windows, and door locks.
Trust me on this one: The instrument cluster should boot normally with no warning lights, and the car should go into Ready mode.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
Acura RL · 2005–2012
Acura ZDX · 2010–2013
Audi A8 · 2011–2018
Audi S4 · 2010–2024
Audi TT · 2008–2023
BMW 6 Series · 2004–2018
Buick Cascada · 2016–2019
Buick Century · 1997–2005