Quick answer: Rear Brake Caliper Replacement on a 2014–2020 Nissan Rogue is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 9 tools for this job, and parts cost about $210. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Rear Brake Caliper |
TRQ CLA47148 |
$150.00 |
|
| Rear Brake Pads |
— |
$50.00 |
|
| Brake Fluid |
— |
$10.00 |
|
| Copper crush washer (banjo bolt) |
— |
— |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Raise and support the vehicle
The 2014–2020 Rogue (2nd generation, T32) in this guide needs a CALIPER REPLACEMENT — not just pads. This is a hydraulic system job involving disconnecting the brake hose, so you'll be bleeding the brakes afterward. The Rogue uses a cable-operated manual parking brake (no EPB), which simplifies one aspect, but you're opening the hydraulic system. You'll need: new caliper, brake fluid (DOT 3 — verify in owner's manual), 14mm flare nut wrench for the banjo bolt, 8mm wrench for the bleeder, and a brake bleeding kit. Jack from designated points, support with stands, chock front wheels. Have a drain pan ready for brake fluid.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I raise the Rogue and support it — then I shake it on the stands. Brake caliper work has me leaning into the wheel well, and I want the car solid before I start. Two minutes of shaking beats a lifetime of regret.
2
Remove the wheel and caliper
Remove the rear wheel. Locate the brake hose where it connects to the caliper via a banjo bolt. Place your drain pan underneath. Using a 14mm FLARE NUT wrench (not a regular open-end — you'll round the soft banjo bolt), loosen the banjo bolt where the hose meets the caliper. Have a rag ready — brake fluid will drip. Once loose, remove the caliper bracket bolts (17mm) and take the entire caliper + bracket off as an assembly. Do NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose — support it or lay it on a clean surface. Plug the open brake hose with a rubber cap or clean rag to minimize fluid loss and prevent air entry.
3
Remove pads and inspect
With the old caliper off, inspect the bracket, slide pins, and rotor. Critical: do NOT mix up the top and bottom slide pins — the BOTTOM pin has a rubber bushing and they are not interchangeable. Note which is which as you remove them. Inspect the rotor for scoring; since you're replacing the caliper, it's wise to replace pads and inspect rotors at the same time. Check the brake hose for cracking or swelling — if the hose is deteriorated, replace it now while the system is open. Clean the bracket thoroughly.
4
Install the new caliper
Prepare the NEW caliper: verify the bleeder valve is on TOP when mounted (if it's on the bottom, the caliper is upside down — flip it). The bleeder takes an 8mm wrench. Install the new caliper onto the bracket — ensure the slide pins go back in their correct positions (bottom pin with rubber bushing goes on bottom). Torque the caliper bracket bolts: NOTE — sources conflict on this spec (136 ft-lbs vs 83 ft-lbs reported). Consult the Nissan service manual for your specific year — do not guess on bracket bolts. Reconnect the brake hose with a new copper crush washer on the banjo bolt (always use new washers). Torque the banjo bolt to Nissan spec.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I install the Rogue caliper and I tighten the bracket bolts in stages — I have seen a bracket warp from one bolt fully tightened first, and a warped bracket means the pads never sit flat. Stages, always.
5
Install new pads and reconnect hose
Install new pads into the caliper bracket. Slide the caliper (with new pads) over the rotor and onto the bracket. Reinstall the 14mm slider pin bolts — torque to 32 Nm (per AUTODOC) or 25–35 ft-lbs. Ensure the pins slide freely. Double-check: bleeder on top, banjo bolt tight with new washers, hose not twisted or kinked, pads seated correctly. Remove the hose plug if you haven't already and verify the connection is secure before bleeding.
6
Bleed brakes and verify
You MUST bleed the brake system now — air entered when you disconnected the hose. Bleed order: start with the wheel FARTHEST from the master cylinder (typically passenger rear, then driver rear, then passenger front, driver front). Have a helper pump the pedal while you open/close the 8mm bleeder, or use a vacuum bleeder. Use fresh DOT 3 fluid. Continue until no air bubbles appear and the pedal is firm. Top up the master cylinder reservoir. Test drive cautiously: verify firm pedal, no pulling, no warning lights. Check for leaks at the banjo bolt and bleeder after the drive. The parking brake (cable-operated) is unaffected by this job — test it normally.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I bleed the Rogue brakes and verify — I go until the pedal is hard and stays hard. I have seen trapped air cause a low pedal a day after a caliper job, and I bleed it properly the first time.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Not properly securing the vehicle with jack stands before starting the repair.
- • Failing to compress the brake caliper piston fully, leading to difficulty installing new pads.
- • Over-tightening caliper bolts, which can damage the caliper or bracket.
