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2010–2024 Toyota 4Runner

2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner — Oil & Filter Change

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 30-60 minutes $60 DIY

Save $50 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110

Quick answer: Oil & Filter Change on a 2010–2024 Toyota 4Runner is rated Moderate and takes about 30-60 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $60. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$60.00
Oil spec 4.0L V6 (1GR-FE)
Capacity 6.6 qt with filter Viscosity 0W-20 (alt: 5W-20)
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine Oil (0W-20) — $45.00
Engine oil filter for 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner; verify engine and VIN fitment — $12.00
New drain-plug washer/O-ring — $3.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm oil and filter fitment

4.0L 1GR-FE V6: 6.6 quarts 0W-20 (5W-20 acceptable temporarily). Cartridge filter, Toyota part 04152-YZZA5, metal housing under engine; skid plate needs to come off or be worked around. 64mm wrench, 14mm socket, new washer ready. Park level, engine warm.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I keep a spare 64mm cartridge wrench in my box just for these — the cheap stamped ones flex and round off the housing ribs. The Toyota 04152-YZZA5 kit is the right call; aftermarket elements sometimes skip the O-ring.

2

Raise and secure the vehicle

Brake set; chock the wheels. Ground clearance lets you slide underneath; if you lift it: frame points and jack stands — never the jack alone. Remove or loosen the skid plate fasteners to reach the drain plug and filter housing.

3

Drain the old oil

Remove the fill cap to vent. Position the drain pan; take out the 14mm plug; let the oil drain. The plug tightens to about 30 ft-lbs on reinstall with a new washer. Wipe the pan surface clean while it drains.

4

Replace the filter and washer

Unscrew the metal housing with 64mm wrench. Pull the old element and O-ring; install the new O-ring (lightly oiled) and element; thread the housing back on to your manual's torque. Drain plug with a new washer to about 30 ft-lbs.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I've seen stripped housing threads from guys treating the canister like a drain plug — torque it to the manual's spec and stop. And always change that housing O-ring; reusing it is how slow drips start.

5

Refill and check for leaks

Pour in about 6 quarts of 0W-20; wait a minute; dipstick; top to full — 6.6 quarts total. Start the engine 30 seconds; check the housing and plug. Refit the skid plate; take a short drive; recheck; recycle the oil.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Using the wrong viscosity, specification, or filter
  • • Raising the vehicle without rated stands, ramps, and wheel chocks
  • • Forgetting the old filter gasket or reusing a crushed drain-plug washer
  • • Over-tightening the filter or drain plug and damaging the housing or pan
  • • Checking level on an uneven surface or overfilling after a partial drain