Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2001–2003 Acura CL is rated Easy and takes about 10–15 minutes. You'll need 1 tool for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Engine air filter for 2001-2003 Acura CL; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Locate the airbox on the driver's side
Open the hood and look at the driver's side of the engine bay: the second-generation CL (2001–2003) carries the J32 3.2L V6 — the J32A1 in the base car and the hotter J32A2 in the Type-S — and its factory airbox sits on the driver's side, a black plastic box joined to a ribbed intake tube running to the throttle body. Below it, tucked into the fender well, lives the factory resonator box; you're not touching that for a filter change, but knowing it's there explains why the lower half of the airbox doesn't move. Note the cruise-control cable clipped to the stock airbox — you'll work around it, not remove it.
2
Release the airbox lid clips
Flip each clip outward with your thumb, working around the box so you don't miss the one hiding at the back. If your CL has an intake-air temperature sensor wired into the duct, disconnect it by pressing its latch tab.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I keep rags out of the engine bay. A forgotten rag near the exhaust is a fire waiting to happen.
3
Lift the lid and remove the old panel
Raise the lid straight up, steering clear of the cruise-control cable clipped to the box, and pull the old panel filter out of the lower tray. Note the pleat direction and which side the rubber gasket faced — the J32's element seats only one way.
4
Clean the tray and inspect the box
Wipe the lower tray with a damp cloth, scooping out the leaves, sand and insect debris that collect at the bottom — the CL's front-facing intake snorkel ingests plenty of it. Inspect the tray for cracks around the clip mounts and where the snorkel joins the box; a cracked lower box on these cars draws hot engine-bay air and is a classic cause of slightly lazy throttle response. Check the lid's sealing edge for a flattened or displaced gasket, and glance down the intake tube toward the throttle body for oil film or debris. Twenty years of heat cycles make the plastic worth a careful look.
5
Seat the new filter flat
Lower the new panel into the tray so its rubber gasket settles fully into the channel, then press around all four edges — it should lie flat with no bowing and no corner riding up. Confirm the pleats face the same direction as the old filter; the media has a distinct dirty side and clean side, and flipping it costs you filtration. On the J32 the sealing surface is everything, because the V6 pulls a lot of air at full throttle and any gap becomes a dust highway. If the filter rocks in the tray, lift it out and check for trapped debris before blaming the part.
6
Close the lid and latch every clip
Set the lid back down evenly and flip every clip closed, then run a finger along the entire seam — it must be uniform with no lifted edge. Press down on the center of the lid and check for any shift that would betray a clip not fully latched. Reconnect the intake sensor plug if your car has one, until the latch clicks. Confirm the cruise-control cable is still clipped to the airbox where it belongs and that the intake tube is fully seated on the airbox neck. Give the whole assembly a gentle shake: nothing should rattle or move.
7
Verify idle and VTEC pull, log the service
Start the engine and let it idle — the J32 should settle into a smooth idle with no hunting. Blip the throttle and listen for whistling around the airbox, the sign of a clip not fully latched or a lid not sealing. Take a short drive with a couple of full-throttle pulls, especially in a Type-S: the VTEC crossover should feel crisp with no hesitation that would point to a disturbed sensor or an intake leak. Check for warning lights on the cluster. Honda's schedule for this era generally has the element inspected regularly and replaced as needed — check your owner's manual, and visually inspect it at each oil change. Log the mileage.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Breaking a brittle clip hinge by forcing it instead of pressing the lid in first
- • Installing the panel upside down so the gasket can't seal
- • Leaving the IAT sensor connector unplugged on models with an intake sensor
- • Snagging the cruise-control cable that clips to the stock airbox
