2001–2003 Acura CL
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $335 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2001–2003 Acura CL is rated Advanced and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours for the V6 (the rear bank takes the time); about 45 minutes for the 2.3L four-cylinder. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2001-2003 Acura CL; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment | — | $115.00 | |
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and let the engine cool completely. Check your trim badge or the emissions sticker under the hood before buying parts, because the four-cylinder and the V6 jobs are different. Disconnect the negative battery cable now.
The three front coils then sit fully exposed along the front of the engine. On the 2.3L four-cylinder there is no cover to remove; the plug wires run across the front of the engine in the open.
I blow out the plug wells before removing plugs. Grit falling into the cylinder is a nightmare you can prevent.
V6: work one bank at a time. Squeeze the release tab on each coil's electrical connector and unplug it, remove the coil's single retaining bolt, and lift the coil straight out of the plug well. Keep the six coils in order on a clean rag. On the rear bank you will be reaching under the plenum — a magnetic pickup tool is handy if a bolt tries to escape. Four-cylinder: mark each plug wire with tape first, then pull each wire off by gripping the rubber boot and twisting gently; never pull the cord itself. Lay the wires out in order so they go back exactly as they came off.
Blast compressed air into each open plug well before loosening anything — debris falling into an open cylinder means a much bigger job. Use a 5/8-inch spark plug socket with a rubber insert on a 3/8-inch ratchet. The front bank on the V6 is a straight shot; the rear bank needs a 6-inch extension and sometimes a swivel to snake under the plenum, so assemble the socket stack before you start the rear three. Break each plug loose counterclockwise and spin it out. The 2.3L four-cylinder's plugs are all accessible from the front of the engine with no extensions needed. Note each old plug's condition as it comes out.
Read the electrode gap specification in your owner's manual or on the emissions sticker under the hood — never use a generic gap value. Check each new plug with a wire-type or feeler gauge and adjust gently, tapping the ground strap to close the gap or prying carefully to open it; never force the gauge against a fine-wire electrode. Thread each new plug into the head by hand for several full turns until finger-tight. On the V6's rear bank, lower the plug in with the socket and extension but start the threads with your fingertips on the extension — if it binds at all, back it out and restart rather than forcing it.
Skip anti-seize unless the plug manufacturer specifically instructs it, since many modern plugs ship with a pre-coated thread. V6: lower each coil back onto its plug, reinstall the retaining bolt, and push the connector on until the tab clicks.
Reinstall the plastic intake-manifold cover on V6 models, making sure every clip and bolt is secured. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and let it idle — it should be smooth with no check-engine light.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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