2005–2012 Acura RL
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110
Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2005–2012 Acura RL is rated Easy and takes about 15–20 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine air filter for 2005-2012 Acura RL; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Open the hood with the engine off and cold. Do not confuse it with the smaller cover on the driver side — that is not the filter box.
Honda's own service steps warn: do NOT disconnect the air intake tube from the air cleaner housing cover. You only need the cover to lift, not the whole assembly to come out. Check that the engine is cool enough to work around before you start.
I don't work under a car on just a jack. Jack stands are non-negotiable — I've seen what happens otherwise.
Work around all four — if the lid still won't budge, you missed one. Never pry the lid with a screwdriver to force a stuck clamp; the plastic hinge tabs crack easily.
Before the cover will lift, remove the single small bolt on the resonance chamber attached to the airbox. Note which hole it came from so reassembly is obvious.
Tilt the cover up and back on its intake-tube hinge. Lift the old paper element straight out and note which way it sat — the new one goes back the same way. Wipe the inside of the lower housing with a damp rag to pick up the grit and leaf bits that always collect there; Honda's procedure calls for a damp rag rather than compressed air, which just blows dust deeper into the intake.
Drop the new element into the lower housing so it lies flat with its gasket sealing all the way around. Lower the cover squarely — if it rocks, the element is cocked and needs reseating. Reinstall the resonance-chamber bolt and snug it, but don't overtighten: it threads into plastic and strips with very little force.
Start the engine and listen at idle for a whistle or hiss around the airbox — that means a clamp isn't fully seated or the element is crooked.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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