Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2009–2014 Acura TL is rated Easy and takes about 30-90 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $180. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Replacement 12-volt battery for 2009-2014 Acura TL; verify group size, CCA, terminal layout, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Anti-corrosion terminal protectant or felt washers (optional) Optional |
— |
$8.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm the TL battery specs and symptoms
TL (3.5L/3.7L) takes a BCI Group 24F — about 550 CCA — top posts, positive terminal on the top right. An AGM 24F is an upgrade. Replace on slow cranking, dim headlights, the battery light, or age over four years.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I always hook up an OBD-II memory saver before unhooking a TL battery — losing your radio and nav security codes turns a 15-minute swap into a scavenger hunt.
2
Park, make it safe, and preserve your settings
Park level, parking brake set, ignition off. Wear safety glasses and gloves. An OBD-II memory saver preserves radio/nav presets, clock, and pairing — without one, have your security codes ready. Tools: 10 mm wrench, wire brush, terminal protector spray.
3
Disconnect the old battery, negative first
Loosen the negative (black) clamp with the 10 mm wrench and twist it off. Then the positive (red). Twist off — corroded TL clamps crack posts if pried. Keep the wrench from bridging the posts or touching the strut tower.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
In my experience, A wire brush and baking-soda paste on the cable clamps takes two minutes and prevents the slow-crank headaches these cars get from crusty terminals.
4
Unbolt the hold-down and install the new battery
Remove the hold-down bolt, lift the battery out — 40-42 lbs. Scrub tray and clamps with wire brush and baking-soda solution; dry. Set new battery in, positive post top right, reinstall hold-down, confirm cable slack.
5
Reconnect, enter codes, and verify charging
Reconnect positive first, then negative. Start the TL: brisk crank, no battery light. Enter radio/nav codes and reset clock without a memory saver. Idle 10 minutes for the relearn, verify about 13.5-14.5 volts at the posts, and return the battery for core credit.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Buying by appearance instead of group size, CCA, polarity, and hold-down fit
- • Shorting the positive terminal to the body with a metal tool
- • Lifting the battery by damaged terminals or leaving it unsecured
- • Skipping battery registration, window/clock resets, or charging-system checks when required
- • Assuming a new battery fixes a parasitic draw or charging fault
