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2017–2018 BMW X5

2017-2018 BMW X5 - Oil Change

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Nov 6, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 30-45 minutes $50 DIY

Save $70 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $120

Quick answer: Oil Change on a 2017–2018 BMW X5 is rated Moderate and takes about 30-45 minutes. You'll need 8 tools for this job, and parts cost about $50. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$50.00
Oil spec 3.0L I6 turbo (N55)
Capacity 6.9 qt with filter Viscosity 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30, 5W-40 Spec BMW Longlife-01
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine Oil (0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 or 5W-40 full synthetic) — $35.00
Oil filter cartridge element kit (with O-rings) — $12.00
Drain Plug Crush Washer — $3.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Prepare the vehicle

The filter is a cartridge under a cap on top of the engine. Have a filter-cap socket, a 17mm socket for the drain plug, and a funnel ready. Park on level ground with the engine warm.

2

Lift and support safely

Set the parking brake and chock the wheels. Lift the front at the designated jacking points and support the X5 on jack stands — never rely on the jack alone. Remove the engine cover up top to reach the filter cap; the drain plug is underneath.

3

Drain the oil

Remove the oil fill cap to vent the crankcase. Slide the drain pan under the oil pan, remove the 17mm drain plug, and drain fully. The plug tightens to about 25 Nm with a new seal on reinstall. Wipe the pan flange clean.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I tell everyone in my shop to crack the fill cap before you pull the drain plug — it vents the crankcase and the oil drains noticeably faster. Skip it and the oil glugs out slow and splashes everywhere.

4

Replace the oil filter

Unscrew the filter cap on top of the engine and lift out the old element. Replace the cap's O-ring with the new one from the filter kit and seat the new cartridge. Thread the cap back on and tighten it to about 25 Nm.

5

Refit drain plug and refill

Reinstall the drain plug to about 25 Nm with a new seal. Wait several minutes, then check the oil level electronically through iDrive and top up to the maximum mark — 6.9 quarts total with the filter.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I've been burned enough times that I always pour 6.5 quarts first, not the full 6.9 — then check iDrive and top up. Overshooting is worse than undershooting; draining excess oil out of these is a miserable job.

6

Check for leaks and reset

Start the engine briefly, shut it off, and inspect the filter cap and drain plug for leaks. Confirm the electronic level once more after a short drive. Reset the service indicator through iDrive, then recycle the used oil and element.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Overfilling the crankcase
  • • Reusing a crushed drain-plug washer
  • • Not resetting the oil-life monitor
  • • Overtightening the drain plug or filter
  • • Using the wrong oil viscosity/spec