2011–2014 Cadillac CTS-V
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $272 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $344
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2011–2014 Cadillac CTS-V is rated Advanced and takes about 90–150 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $72. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Iridium spark plugs (8, LSA-specific) | — | $72.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park the CTS-V, turn it off, and let the 6.2L LSA cool for at least 2 hours. Working on hot aluminum heads risks stripping plug threads. Disconnect the negative battery terminal for safety.
Pull the plastic engine cover off to expose the supercharger. Loosen the clamp on the air intake tube at the throttle body and remove the tube for working room on the driver's side.
Each of the 8 coils is held by a single bolt to the valve cover. Starting on one bank, unplug the electrical connector from each coil by squeezing its tab, then remove the coil bolt with a socket. Pull the coil straight up and set the coils aside in order — they must go back on the same cylinders.
With the coils off, the plug boots are exposed deep in the head — twist each boot to break it free, then pull it out. Fit a 5/8-inch spark-plug socket with an extension down each tube and loosen the plug.
Compare each old plug to the new ones — the LSA uses a specific iridium plug, so match the part number exactly. Check the gap with a feeler gauge and adjust only by bending the ground strap, never the center electrode.
I've done this job enough times to say it plain: Check the gap with a feeler gauge and adjust only by bending the ground strap, never the center electrode.
Thread each new plug in by hand using just the socket and extension — no ratchet — until it seats, to guarantee you do not cross-thread the aluminum heads. Once hand-tight, attach the ratchet and snug to spec. If you do not have a torque wrench, a quarter-turn past hand-tight on a tapered-seat plug is the rule; do not overtighten.
I learned this one the hard way — with no torque wrench, I go a quarter-turn past hand-tight on a tapered-seat plug and never overtighten.
Push each plug boot firmly back onto its plug until you feel it click over the terminal. Set each coil back onto its original cylinder, reinstall the bolts, and reconnect the electrical plugs.
Reconnect the negative battery terminal. Start the engine and let it idle — it should run smoothly with no flashing check-engine light. If a misfire code appears, recheck the coil connections on the affected cylinder first.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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