Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2018–2022 Ford EcoSport is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2018-2022 Ford EcoSport; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm engine and plug fitment
1.0L EcoBoost: Motorcraft SP-538-AX (NGK 93593 equivalent), gapped 0.028 in (0.7 mm) — buy three. The 2.0L Duratec uses a different plug; confirm your engine first. Scan for misfire codes (P0301-P0303), and let the engine cool: the turbo heat shield sits close to the coils.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
Always confirm the engine before ordering — I've seen people order 2.0L plugs for the EcoBoost and learn the hard way.
2
Cool and expose the plugs
Work on a stone-cold engine — the 1.0L's turbo heat shield burns. Pull the engine cover straight up off its studs to expose the three coil-on-plug units on the valve cover. Battery disconnect is optional; just leave the key off and out of the ignition.
3
Remove coils and clean wells
Unplug each coil (squeeze the locking tab), remove the hold-down bolt, and lift the coil out. Blow compressed air down each well first — grit scores the cylinder wall. Heavy carbon or oil on old plugs can mean a bad coil or valve-cover gasket.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
In my experience, When you blow out the wells, wear glasses — that grit comes right back up at your face, and it stings.
4
Remove and install plugs
Crack loose with a 14 mm thin-wall socket (M12 x 1.25), spin out. Gap plugs to 0.028 in. Hand-thread to protect the aluminum head, then snug to Ford's torque spec — never an impact, no anti-seize on coated threads.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
From my bay, Never guess the gap on an EcoBoost — 0.028 off by much and it'll misfire under boost. Wire gauge, every plug, every time.
5
Reconnect and verify
Reinstall coils, tighten hold-down bolts, click each connector until it locks. Start and idle — rough idle after a plug change means a loose coil connector or a damaged plug. Short drive; re-scan: a returning P030x points at that cylinder's coil, not the new plug.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Using the wrong plug or assuming a pre-gapped plug needs no verification
- • Blowing debris into an open cylinder or plug well
- • Cross-threading a plug or tightening it without a torque wrench
- • Overusing anti-seize or dielectric grease on the plug threads
- • Mixing coil connectors or ignoring a misfire after reassembly
