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2013–2019 Ford Escape

2013-2019 Ford Escape — PCV Valve Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 1-3 hours $55 DIY

Save $270 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $325

Quick answer: PCV Valve Replacement on a 2013–2019 Ford Escape is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $55. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$55.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
PCV valve and seal/grommet for 2013-2019 Ford Escape; verify engine, emissions package, and VIN — $55.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm the diagnosis and fitment

Scan for codes and inspect oil consumption, crankcase pressure, vacuum leaks, hoses, and the valve-cover area. Confirm the replacement PCV valve, seal, engine, and access path by VIN before disassembly.

2

Cool and prepare the vehicle

Park on level ground, set the parking brake, switch the ignition off, and let the engine cool completely. Disconnect the negative battery cable only when the vehicle-specific service procedure calls for it.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

The engine has to be genuinely cold for this one — the valve cover and that plastic grommet are brittle when hot. I do PCV valves first thing in the morning or not at all.

3

Expose the PCV valve

Remove only the engine cover, intake duct, brackets, wheel liner, or shields needed to reach the PCV valve. Photograph hose routing and protect nearby connectors from tools and dirt.

4

Remove the old valve

Release the hose or quick connector without twisting the hose, then remove the valve with the correct socket or pliers. Capture any spacer or seal and inspect the port, threads, hose, and valve-cover grommet for cracks or sludge.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I don't twist the hose to break the connector free — those quick connectors release with a tab or a squeeze, and I've learned twisting cracks the plastic nipple on the valve cover; if it won't come, I find the release, not the leverage.

5

Install the replacement

Compare the new valve with the old one, install a new seal or grommet where specified, and seat the valve in the original direction. Start fasteners by hand and use the exact engine-specific torque; do not use thread sealant unless specified.

6

Reconnect the ventilation system

Reconnect the hose, clips, electrical connectors, intake parts, brackets, and shields. Confirm every lock is seated and that the hose is not kinked, pinched, chafing, or routed near a hot or moving component.

7

Check for leaks and verify operation

Start the 2013-2019 Ford Escape, listen for a hissing vacuum leak, inspect the valve and hose for oil or air leaks, and scan for returning codes. Let the engine reach operating temperature and do not drive if idle quality worsens, a warning light returns, or a leak is present.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Replacing the PCV valve without confirming the engine, part number, or failure diagnosis
  • • Pulling a brittle hose or connector sideways and breaking its retainer
  • • Dropping the sealing washer, spacer, or fastener into the engine bay
  • • Over-tightening a small valve or bolt in an aluminum or plastic housing
  • • Leaving a vacuum leak, loose hose, or un-cleared diagnostic code after reassembly