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2011–2014 Ford Explorer

2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L - EVAP Canister Purge Valve Replacement

🔧🔧 Moderate 1 hour $50 DIY 2 views

Save $150 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $200

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

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Total Cost
$47.95
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Vapor Canister Purge Valve TRQ EVA47776 $47.95

About prices: shown prices are estimates from typical Amazon listings and change frequently, and cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price on Amazon before buying.

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Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm the code and locate the purge valve

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: scan for EVAP codes (often P0441/P0443/P0496). Locate the purge valve — typically on or near the intake manifold or in the engine bay EVAP lines. Work on a cool engine. Disconnect the negative battery cable if recommended for your vehicle.

2

Disconnect electrical and vacuum/vapor lines

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: unplug the electrical connector. Label and disconnect the vapor/vacuum hoses; note routing so lines are not swapped. Expect a small amount of fuel vapor — work in a well-ventilated area away from sparks.

3

Remove the old purge valve

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: unbolt or unclip the purge valve from its bracket. Compare the new valve to the old one — port sizes and connector shape must match. Inspect hoses for cracks or soft spots and replace if damaged.

4

Install the new purge valve

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: mount the new valve, reconnect hoses fully seated with clamps if equipped, and plug in the connector until it clicks. Route wiring clear of hot manifolds and sharp edges.

5

Clear codes and verify readiness

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: reconnect the battery if removed. Clear EVAP codes with a scan tool. Start the engine and check for hissing or fuel smell at the valve. Confirm the purge command operates if your scanner can bi-directionally control it.

6

Confirm the repair with a drive cycle

On the 2011-2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L: drive through a typical drive cycle so EVAP monitors can run. Recheck for pending codes and verify the check-engine light stays off. Re-inspect hose connections after the first heat cycle.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Not disconnecting the negative battery terminal before starting the repair.
  • • Forgetting to replace the O-ring during installation, leading to potential leaks.
  • • Over-tightening bolts, which can strip threads or damage components.