2013–2020 Ford Fusion
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $335 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2013–2020 Ford Fusion is rated Advanced and takes about 1–2 hours. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2013-2020 Ford Fusion; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment | — | $115.00 | |
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
All 2013-2020 Fusion four-cylinders — 2.5L Duratec, EcoBoost 1.6L/1.5L/2.0L, 2.0L hybrid — have four coil-on-plug units in a row across the cover. Work with the engine cold. Gather a ratchet with sockets, 5/8-inch spark-plug socket, feeler gauge, and dielectric grease.
Lift the engine cover off. On EcoBoosts, the air-cleaner outlet pipe and vent tube cross over the coils — disconnect it, loosen the clamps, remove the stud bolt, and lift the pipe off. Note how it was routed and clamped.
Rock each coil's connector off — never pull the wires. Remove hold-down bolts and lift each coil straight up, twisting if the boot is stuck. Check boots for cracks and carbon tracking; tracked boots need replacing. Keep coils in order.
Blow debris out of each plug well first. Loosen each plug with a 5/8-inch socket on an extension. Keep the plugs in order and read them — on EcoBoosts, one steam-cleaned plug among carboned ones signals coolant intrusion, which needs diagnosis.
On the EcoBoosts I always read the old plugs before tossing them. One steam-cleaned plug in a carboned set means coolant is getting in — that's a shop job, not a plug swap.
Gap-check every plug — never pry on an iridium electrode. Trivalent-plated threads install dry; anti-seize only if the plug maker calls for it. Thread plugs in by hand with the extension, then seat per instructions — overtightening strips the aluminum head.
Smear dielectric grease inside each coil boot. Push each coil onto its plug, reinstall hold-down bolts, and reconnect connectors until they click. Refit the air pipe — clamps tightened, vent tube reconnected — since any leak lets in unmetered air.
Start the engine — it should idle smoothly with no check-engine light. Road-test with some throttle: a plug or coil problem shows as a stumble or shudder under boost, often with a P0301–P0304 code. If it misfires, recheck connectors and clamps first.
In my experience, Don't skip the road test. An EcoBoost can idle perfectly on a dying coil and only fall on its face under boost — a hard pull on an on-ramp will tell you the truth.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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