Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2015–2022 GMC Canyon is rated Advanced and takes about 45 minutes–1 hour (2.5L four); 2.5–3.5 hours (3.6L V6). You'll need 8 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for 2015-2022 GMC Canyon; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
| Intake plenum gasket (V6) Optional |
— |
— |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm which Canyon engine you have
The Canyon in this range came with three engines, so confirm yours before buying parts. The base 2.5L LCV inline-four needs just four plugs and everything is easy. The 3.6L V6 — the LFX for 2015–2016, the LGX from 2017 on — needs six plugs with the rear bank buried under the upper intake plenum. And the 2.8L Duramax diesel (2016–2022) has glow plugs, not spark plugs, so this guide does not apply to it. Park flat, cool the engine completely, and disconnect the negative battery terminal.
2
Pull the cover and survey the coil layout
Pull the plastic engine cover straight up off its rubber grommets. On the 2.5L four, the four coil packs sit in a row right on the valve cover, fully accessible. On the 3.6L V6 you will see three coils on the front bank and the upper intake plenum swallowing the rear three. The four-cylinder job is nearly as easy as the HR-V's; the V6 is the project.
3
Lift the plenum to reach the V6 rear bank
V6 owners: disconnect the intake duct, the throttle body connector, and the vacuum hoses from the plenum — label each with tape. Check the plenum gasket: if it is hard, torn, or compressed flat, it gets replaced, not reused.
4
Unbolt the coils and clear the plug wells
Each coil is held by a single 10mm bolt with a clip-on electrical connector. Squeeze the connector tab, slide it straight back, remove the bolt, and pull the coil straight up. Keep coils in firing order on a rag. Blow out every plug well with compressed air before the plug moves — grit in an open cylinder is the silent killer. Then remove each plug with a 5/8-inch spark plug socket on an extension, finishing by hand.
5
Gap-check plugs for the 2.5L or 3.6L
Check every new plug's gap with a feeler gauge against your owner's manual or the emissions sticker under the hood — the four and the V6 do not share a specification, and I will not invent either.
6
Hand-start plugs and rebuild the V6 intake
Resistance means cross-threading: back it out and start over. On the V6, pull the rags from the runners (count all six), set the plenum on its gasket, and tighten the bolts evenly in a crisscross pattern.
7
Reconnect power and verify the idle
Set the engine cover back on its grommets, reconnect the negative battery cable, and start the engine. It should idle smooth within seconds. Take a short test drive with some steady cruising to confirm clean, misfire-free running.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Reusing the hardened intake plenum gasket on the V6 — inspect it every time and replace it if it is not soft and whole.
- • Forgetting the 2.8L Duramax diesel takes glow plugs, not spark plugs, and buying plugs for it.
- • Mixing up the 2.5L four and 3.6L V6 plug counts — four versus six — and ending up short.
