1
Park and prep
Park on flat, level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Break the front lug nuts loose while the wheel is still on the ground.
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2006–2011 Honda Civic
2006-2011 Honda Civic — Control Arm Replacement
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Oct 9, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
🔧🔧 Moderate
2-3 hours
$138 DIY
Save $337 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $475
Quick answer: Control Arm Replacement on a 2006–2011 Honda Civic is rated Moderate and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 13 tools for this job, and parts cost about $138. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
Quick Video Tutorial
Parts You Need
The options below are alternatives for the same part — you only need to buy one. Pick the one that matches your year and engine.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front Lower Control Arm with Bushings, Driver Side (non-Si models) | 51360-SNA-A03 | $69.00 | |
| Front Lower Control Arm with Bushings, Passenger Side (non-Si models) | 51350-SNA-A03 | $69.00 | |
| Cotter pin (new) | — | — |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Compare the options above and order the one that matches your vehicle — you only need one.
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
2
Lift and secure the front end
Raise the front with a floor jack on the subframe or pinch weld, then lower it onto jack stands. Never work under a car supported only by a jack. Remove the front wheel.
3
Disconnect the sway bar end link
Remove the 14mm nut holding the sway bar end link to the control arm and push the link aside. Hold the link stud with a wrench or hex key if it spins.
4
Separate the lower ball joint
Remove the cotter pin and castle nut. Separate with a separator or hammer strike on the knuckle — never on the stud threads. Reuse the ball joint (three flange bolts) if the new arm has none.
5
Remove the two control arm bolts
Remove the front 12mm bolt where the arm meets the subframe, then the rear 17mm bolt. Spray penetrating oil and use a breaker bar if they are rusted.
6
Drop out the old arm
Pry the control arm down and slide it out of the subframe pockets. Compare it with the new arm to confirm the bushings and ball joint match before installing.
7
Install the new control arm
Slide the new arm in and thread both bolts by hand. Torque the front bolt to 47 ft-lb (64 Nm) and the rear to 61 ft-lb (83 Nm). Final-torque at ride height (wheels loaded) so the bushings aren't preloaded.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Torquing those bushings with the suspension hanging is the mistake I see most on this job. Do it with the wheels loaded, or the bushings twist every time the suspension moves and they tear within a year.
8
Reattach the ball joint
Bolt the ball joint to the arm's flange (three bolts, 44 ft-lb / 59 Nm); seat the stud in the knuckle, tighten the castle nut to 44-51 ft-lb (59-69 Nm). Install a NEW cotter pin, bending its ends around it.
9
Reconnect the sway bar end link
Reconnect the end link to the control arm and torque the nut to 25 ft-lb (34 Nm).
10
Reinstall the wheel and lower the car
Mount the wheel, hand-thread all lug nuts, lower the car to the ground, then torque the lugs to 80 ft-lb (108 Nm) in a star pattern.
11
Get a wheel alignment
Replacing a control arm changes your alignment. Drive gently to an alignment shop and get a four-wheel alignment to protect your tires and handling.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Torquing the big arm bolts with the wheel hanging unloads the suspension and preloads the new bushings, which tears them early. Torque them with the car on the ground or the arm at ride height.
- • Reusing the old cotter pin on the ball joint castle nut. Always use a new one.
- • Installing an Si control arm on a non-Si Civic or vice versa. The ball joints differ. Match the trim.
- • Hammering directly on the ball joint stud threads instead of the knuckle, which ruins the stud.
- • Skipping the alignment, or skipping the new cotter pin, or forgetting to reconnect the sway bar end link.
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