Disconnect the battery
Set the parking brake and make sure the ignition is fully off. Loosen the negative cable nut with a 10mm wrench and slide the cable off, tucking it aside — not skippable; the thick starter cable is always hot.
2006–2011 Honda Civic
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 26, 2026 · Updated Sep 27, 2026
Save $258 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $400
Quick answer: Starter Replacement on a 2006–2011 Honda Civic is rated Moderate and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 13 tools for this job, and parts cost about $142. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Starter Motor Assembly (1.8L engine, automatic transmission) | 31200-RNA-A51 | $141.95 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Set the parking brake and make sure the ignition is fully off. Loosen the negative cable nut with a 10mm wrench and slide the cable off, tucking it aside — not skippable; the thick starter cable is always hot.
The starter sits below the intake manifold, bolted to the top of the transmission. Unbolt the air filter box, loosen the intake hose clamp, lift the whole air intake assembly out. That opens the workspace above the starter.
Jack up the front of the car and set it securely on jack stands. Remove the plastic engine undercover so you can see and reach the starter from below. Wheel chocks on the rear wheels keep the car from rolling.
Find the wire plugged into the starter solenoid; its S-terminal connector unclips by hand. Press the release tab and pull it straight off. If it is stiff with age, use a pick gently rather than yanking the wire.
Don't yank a stiff solenoid connector. I've seen the plastic tab snap clean off on high-mileage Civics — then the wire won't stay put and you've got an intermittent no-crank. A pick and a little patience saves a real headache.
Remove the 12mm nut holding the thick main battery cable onto the starter's power stud. Slide the cable off and bend it aside, keeping the metal end well away from any ground or terminal while you work.
The starter is held by two 14mm bolts into the transmission bellhousing. Break them loose with a 14mm socket and extensions, supporting the starter as the second bolt comes out. Lower the starter out.
Hand-start both 14mm bolts so the threads don't cross in the aluminum case, then torque to 45 N·m (33 lb-ft). Reattach the main power cable and snug its nut to 9.0 N·m (6.6 lb-ft), then click the S-terminal connector on.
Reinstall the air filter box, intake hose, and engine undercover. Lower the car off the jack stands, reconnect the negative cable, start the engine. Cranking should be strong and steady, with no grinding and no warning lights on the dash.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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