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2009–2012 Infiniti FX35

2009-2012 Infiniti FX35 — Battery Replacement

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧 Easy 30-90 minutes $180 DIY

Save $120 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $300

Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2009–2012 Infiniti FX35 is rated Easy and takes about 30-90 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $180. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$180.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Replacement 12-volt battery for 2009-2012 Infiniti FX35; verify group size, CCA, terminal layout, and VIN fitment — $180.00
Anti-corrosion terminal protectant or felt washers (optional) Optional — $8.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Verify battery fitment and charging symptoms

The FX35 takes a Group 35 battery around 585 CCA, positive on the right, tucked under the cowl at the back of the engine bay. A light that stays lit with the engine running points at the alternator or belt.

2

Make the vehicle safe and preserve settings when permitted

Park level, ignition off, key fob well away so the modules sleep. A memory saver is optional if the manual permits it. Wear gloves and eye protection; a bulging or leaking case is a shop job.

3

Disconnect the old battery

Pry up the clips on the under-cowl casing — they lift from the middle, so work them gently. Remove the covers, loosen the negative (-) clamp first, then the positive (+). Remove the 10mm bracket bolts and lift the battery straight up and out.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Those under-cowl clips get brittle with heat and age — pry them from the middle gently. I break one on these cars more often than I admit, and a snapped clip means a rattling cover forever.

4

Compare and install the replacement

Compare the new Group 35 to the old: footprint, height, and CCA at or above 585. Clean the tray and cable ends, lower it in, and tighten the bracket until it can't rock. Reconnect positive (+) first, negative (-) second, then refit the covers.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Corrosion loves this sheltered spot because nobody ever looks at it. Scrub the cable ends bright before you connect — I've chased phantom no-starts that were just crusty terminals under that cowl.

5

Reset and verify operation

No registration step. Confirm a strong crank, no warning lights, and 13.5-14.5 volts across the posts, engine running. Reset the clock and radio presets, and cycle each window down and up. Make sure the under-cowl covers are fully clipped down.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Buying by appearance instead of group size, CCA, polarity, and hold-down fit
  • • Shorting the positive terminal to the body with a metal tool
  • • Lifting the battery by damaged terminals or leaving it unsecured
  • • Skipping battery registration, window/clock resets, or charging-system checks when required
  • • Assuming a new battery fixes a parasitic draw or charging fault