Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2009–2012 Infiniti FX35 is rated Easy and takes about 30-90 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $180. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Replacement 12-volt battery for 2009-2012 Infiniti FX35; verify group size, CCA, terminal layout, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Anti-corrosion terminal protectant or felt washers (optional) Optional |
— |
$8.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Verify battery fitment and charging symptoms
The FX35 takes a Group 35 battery around 585 CCA, positive on the right, tucked under the cowl at the back of the engine bay. A light that stays lit with the engine running points at the alternator or belt.
2
Make the vehicle safe and preserve settings when permitted
Park level, ignition off, key fob well away so the modules sleep. A memory saver is optional if the manual permits it. Wear gloves and eye protection; a bulging or leaking case is a shop job.
3
Disconnect the old battery
Pry up the clips on the under-cowl casing — they lift from the middle, so work them gently. Remove the covers, loosen the negative (-) clamp first, then the positive (+). Remove the 10mm bracket bolts and lift the battery straight up and out.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Those under-cowl clips get brittle with heat and age — pry them from the middle gently. I break one on these cars more often than I admit, and a snapped clip means a rattling cover forever.
4
Compare and install the replacement
Compare the new Group 35 to the old: footprint, height, and CCA at or above 585. Clean the tray and cable ends, lower it in, and tighten the bracket until it can't rock. Reconnect positive (+) first, negative (-) second, then refit the covers.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Corrosion loves this sheltered spot because nobody ever looks at it. Scrub the cable ends bright before you connect — I've chased phantom no-starts that were just crusty terminals under that cowl.
5
Reset and verify operation
No registration step. Confirm a strong crank, no warning lights, and 13.5-14.5 volts across the posts, engine running. Reset the clock and radio presets, and cycle each window down and up. Make sure the under-cowl covers are fully clipped down.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Buying by appearance instead of group size, CCA, polarity, and hold-down fit
- • Shorting the positive terminal to the body with a metal tool
- • Lifting the battery by damaged terminals or leaving it unsecured
- • Skipping battery registration, window/clock resets, or charging-system checks when required
- • Assuming a new battery fixes a parasitic draw or charging fault