Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2013–2018 Lexus ES is rated Easy and takes about 30-90 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $180. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Replacement 12-volt battery for 2013-2018 Lexus ES; verify group size, CCA, terminal layout, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Anti-corrosion terminal protectant or felt washers (optional) Optional |
— |
$8.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm which ES battery you need
The 2013-2018 Lexus ES splits by powertrain. The ES 350 gasoline model uses a BCI Group 24F 12-volt battery in the engine bay, originally around 600 to 750 CCA. The ES 300h hybrid instead uses a small 12-volt auxiliary battery on the right side of the trunk, which powers the low-voltage electronics while the big nickel-metal-hydride hybrid pack sits behind the rear seat; do not confuse the two. Read the group size and CCA from the label on your existing battery before buying. Confirm the battery is the true problem first: slow cranking, dim lights, a charging warning, or a battery older than four years point to replacement, while a battery that drains overnight may signal a parasitic draw or a failing alternator.
2
Power down safely, especially on the hybrid
On the hybrid, make sure the car is fully off and not in Ready mode before touching anything; never touch the orange high-voltage cables or the hybrid battery pack, which are not part of this job. Wear safety glasses and gloves.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
In my experience, small thing, big difference: On the hybrid, make sure the car is fully off and not in Ready mode before touching anything; never touch the orange high-voltage cables or the hybrid battery pack, which are not part of this job.
3
Access and disconnect the old battery
For the ES 350: open the hood, find the battery in the engine bay, and remove any cover over it. Disconnect the negative (-) cable first, then the positive (+) cable. Remove the hold-down bracket bolts and lift the old battery straight out, keeping it upright.
4
Install the new battery and restore covers
Compare the new battery to the old one for identical group size, terminal layout, and polarity. Set it into the tray or trunk well, clean any corrosion from the cable clamps with a wire brush, and reinstall the hold-down bracket so the battery cannot shift. Reconnect the positive (+) cable first, then the negative (-), tightening each clamp until the cable cannot twist on the post.
5
Start up and verify operation
Start the ES (or press the power button to Ready on the hybrid) and confirm there are no warning lights. Reset the clock and radio presets if they were lost, and cycle each power window fully down and up to restore auto operation.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I always do yourself a favor here: Start the ES (or press the power button to Ready on the hybrid) and confirm there are no warning lights.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Buying by appearance instead of group size, CCA, polarity, and hold-down fit
- • Shorting the positive terminal to the body with a metal tool
- • Lifting the battery by damaged terminals or leaving it unsecured
- • Skipping battery registration, window/clock resets, or charging-system checks when required
- • Assuming a new battery fixes a parasitic draw or charging fault
