Quick answer: Oil Pan Gasket Removal Tips on a 2016–2022 Mercedes-Benz GLC is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 9 tools for this job, and parts cost about $95. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Oil Pan Gasket |
A2740100150 |
$40.00 |
|
| Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket |
A2740100151 |
$5.00 |
|
| Engine Oil |
A0009899003 |
$50.00 |
|
| Oil Filter |
— |
— |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm the leak and judge the difficulty honestly
Clean the oily area with degreaser, drive the GLC briefly, then add UV dye to the engine oil and re-inspect with a UV light — only proceed if the dye shows the leak is genuinely coming from the oil pan gasket seam. Common look-alikes on the 2016–2022 GLC (X253) include the oil filter housing gasket and the drain plug washer, which are far easier fixes. Be honest with yourself about difficulty: this is an advanced job. The front subframe blocks the oil pan and must be lowered, so you need an engine support bar, a torque wrench, and ideally a lift. Without that equipment, a reputable independent shop is the safer and cheaper choice in the long run.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I confirm the GLC leak and judge the difficulty honestly — an oil-pan gasket on this car is serious work, and I torque every pan bolt in sequence because I have seen a warped pan flange from uneven tightening. The wrench is mandatory here.
2
Raise the vehicle and open up access
Work on a cold engine and disconnect the negative battery terminal. Raise the GLC on a vehicle lift if you have one; otherwise use a floor jack on the factory lift points and support it on rated jack stands — never work under a vehicle held up by a jack alone. Remove the underbody engine splash shields and belly pan, keeping every fastener organized in a tray so the shields go back on correctly at the end.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I disconnect the GLC negative terminal and fold it back over the inner fender. Oil-pan work means I am under the car with the engine cold — I still secure the cable, because habit is what keeps me safe on the easy jobs too.
3
Drain the engine oil and remove the filter
Place a drain pan under the sump, remove the drain plug, and let the oil drain completely. Remove the oil filter as well, since it will be replaced with fresh oil at the end of the job anyway.
4
Support the engine and lower the front subframe
Install an engine support bar across the front strut towers or shock mounts following the bar manufacturer's instructions, and take the engine's weight on it before you unbolt anything below. Following your shop manual for your GLC's exact engine (the 2.0-liter turbo M274 is most common in this year range, with diesels in some markets), unbolt the engine mounts and lower the front subframe just enough to clear the oil pan — do not drop it further than the manual requires. Mark the subframe's alignment position before moving it, and disconnect or reposition any steering components, lines, or wiring still attached to the subframe exactly as the manual directs. Never let the engine hang by its hoses or wiring.
5
Remove the oil pan
Loosen the oil pan bolts gradually in a crisscross pattern working from the outside inward, and support the pan with one hand as the last bolts come out — it is heavier than it looks. If the pan is stuck to the old gasket or sealant, break it free with steady hand pressure; never drive a screwdriver blade between the sealing faces, because gouging the aluminum block or pan flange guarantees a leak. Once the pan is down, inspect the oil pickup screen for sludge or debris, which can signal neglected oil changes that caused the gasket failure in the first place.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I remove the GLC oil pan and I scrape the flange meticulously — plastic scraper, no gouging the aluminum. I have seen a pan gasket leak from old RTV left in one corner, and I check it with my finger when I am done.
6
Clean the sealing surfaces and reseal to the book
Scrape both sealing surfaces — the block and the pan flange — with a plastic scraper and solvent until every trace of old gasket or sealant is gone. Do not use abrasive pads, wire wheels, or sharp metal tools; aluminum sealing faces are easily damaged and a scratched surface will never seal. Check the pan flange for warping by laying it on a flat surface. Install the new gasket dry unless your shop manual specifies a sealant path for your particular engine — Mercedes procedures differ between engine variants, so follow the manual for your engine code exactly rather than guessing. Set the pan in place and tighten the bolts in the manufacturer's sequence, in stages, to the specification in your shop manual using a torque wrench.
7
Refill, reassemble, and leak-check
Install a new oil filter and refill the engine with the oil grade and quantity listed in your owner's manual or shop manual — do not guess at the capacity. Reconnect the negative battery terminal, reinstall the splash shields and belly pan, and lower the vehicle. Start the engine and let it reach full operating temperature while you inspect the entire pan rail closely with a flashlight for any seepage. Shut the engine off, recheck the oil level using the procedure in your manual (dipstick or electronic gauge), top up if needed, and inspect for leaks again after a short drive.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Not properly supporting the engine during oil pan removal
- • Failing to clean the mating surfaces before installing the new gasket
- • Over-tightening the oil pan bolts, leading to gasket damage
