← Back to MINI Countryman Guides

2011–2016 MINI Countryman

2011-2016 MINI Countryman — Oil and Filter Change

🔧 Easy 30-60 minutes

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Click links to purchase (we earn from qualifying purchases)

Total Cost
$0.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine oil filter element — —
Oil filter housing O-ring — —
Sump plug washer — —
Full synthetic engine oil (grade and capacity per owner's manual) — —

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Warm the engine and set up safely

Run the R60 Countryman for a few minutes so the oil flows freely, then switch it off and park on level ground. Apply the parking brake and chock the wheels. The car is ready to lift when it sits level and cannot roll.

2

Lift the car and place the drain pan

Jack up the front and rest the car securely on jack stands at the reinforced jacking points. Slide the drain pan under the sump beneath the drain plug. Nothing should move or wobble before you reach underneath.

3

Drain the old oil

Loosen the sump drain plug and remove it by hand, letting the oil pour into the pan. Allow several minutes for the stream to slow to drips so the maximum amount of old oil leaves the engine. Wipe the plug and the sump face clean.

4

Refit the drain plug with a new washer

Fit a new washer to the drain plug and thread it in by hand to protect the sump threads. Tighten it firmly with the ratchet without forcing it. The sump is sealed when the plug is snug and the washer is compressed.

5

Remove the oil filter housing cap

Locate the oil filter housing on the engine and loosen its cap with the correct socket or filter wrench, as shown in the video's service sequence. Lift the cap out with the old filter element attached. Have a towel ready for the oil trapped in the housing.

6

Fit the new filter element and O-ring

Detach the old element from the cap and click the new one into place. Replace the cap's O-ring, smearing it lightly with fresh oil so it seats without pinching. The filter assembly is ready when the new element is secure and the O-ring sits evenly in its groove.

7

Reinstall the filter cap

Lower the cap into the housing and turn it by hand until the threads engage smoothly. Tighten it to a snug finish with the socket, stopping before the plastic strains. The oil system is closed when the cap sits flush with no gaps.

8

Refill, check the level, and look for leaks

Lower the car to level ground, remove the filler cap, and pour in fresh full-synthetic oil of the grade in the owner's manual. Check the dipstick and top up to the full mark without exceeding it. Start the engine briefly, switch off, and confirm there are no leaks at the sump plug or filter housing.

9

Reset the service reminder and finish up

Use the trip/BC button on the indicator stalk to open the service menu, select the engine oil item, and confirm the reset. Take the used oil and filter to a recycling point. The job is done when the dipstick reads full, the underside is dry, and the service reminder is cleared.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Reusing the sump plug washer and getting a slow leak.
  • • Cracking the plastic filter cap by over-tightening.
  • • Forgetting to oil the new O-ring so it pinches and leaks.
  • • Overfilling because the level was never checked on the dipstick.