2011–2016 Mini Countryman
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $245 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Brake Pad Replacement on a 2011–2016 Mini Countryman is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $205. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front or rear brake pad set for 2011-2016 Mini Countryman; verify axle, brake package, and VIN fitment | — | $180.00 | |
| Replacement pad hardware or wear sensor only if the kit requires it | — | $25.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
The Mini Countryman (R60) runs single-piston floating calipers up front. Get front-axle pads for the R60 specifically - the Countryman's taller, heavier build uses bigger pads than the regular Cooper hatch.
Minis use lug bolts rather than nuts, so break them loose with the car on the ground using a 17mm socket. Raise the front on rated jack stands and remove the wheel.
Pry the anti-rattle spring wire off the face of the caliper with a flat screwdriver - it is under tension, so control it as it pops free. Pop the two plastic dust caps off the back of the caliper and remove the hex-head guide bolts beneath them. Slide the caliper off the rotor and hang it from the strut with a hook; do not let it hang by the brake hose. Unplug the pad wear sensor on the front-left caliper - pull the connector, never yank the wire. Slide the old pads out and note their orientation.
The Countryman's anti-rattle spring is under real tension — I pry it off expecting it to fight me, and I watch where it lands. Lose that spring under the workbench and the reassembly stops cold.
Pull the guide pins, wipe off the old grease, inspect the boots, and re-grease with silicone brake grease. Set the old inner pad over the piston and push it straight back flush with a C-clamp.
I wipe the Mini's guide pins clean and re-grease them with silicone brake grease only — petroleum grease swells the boots. Then the old inner pad over the piston and a C-clamp pushes it straight back flush.
Seat the new pads in the bracket, reconnect the wear sensor on the front-left (it clips into the pad and routes into its holder), and slide the caliper back over the rotor. Reinstall the guide bolts and tighten to the spec in your owner's manual or service info, then refit the dust caps and snap the anti-rattle spring back onto the caliper face. Refit the wheel, lower the car, and torque the lug bolts to spec in a star pattern. Pump the brake pedal until firm before driving, check the reservoir level, and bed the pads with moderate stops from about 30 mph, avoiding hard stops for the first couple hundred miles.
After the Countryman's pads seat, I reconnect the wear sensor before the caliper slides over — forgetting it means the dash light comes back and the whole wheel comes off again. Snap the spring on last.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2011–2016
2011–2016
2017–2024
2017–2024
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