Quick answer: Battery Replacement on a 2010–2018 Ram 2500 is rated Easy and takes about 30-90 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $180. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Replacement 12-volt battery for 2010-2018 Ram 2500 (x2 on diesel); verify group size, CCA, terminal layout, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Anti-corrosion terminal protectant or felt washers (optional) Optional |
— |
$8.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm the dual-battery diesel or single HEMI setup
The 2010-2018 Ram 2500's battery setup depends on the engine. Trucks with the 6.7L Cummins diesel have TWO 12-volt batteries wired in parallel, one on each side of the engine bay, and both must be identical Group 94R/H7 batteries (around 750 to 800 CCA each) replaced as a matched pair. Trucks with the 5.7L or 6.4L HEMI have a single battery. Read the labels on your existing batteries before buying. A common and expensive mistake on the diesel is replacing only one battery: the older, weaker battery drags the new one down and can take out the alternator, so budget for both. Confirm the batteries are the problem with slow cranking, low voltage readings, or failed load tests before replacing.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Shop habit of mine: A common and expensive mistake on the diesel is replacing only one battery: the older, weaker battery drags the new one down and can take out the alternator, so budget for both.
2
Park and plan the one-side-at-a-time swap
Park the Ram 2500 on level ground, shift to Park, set the parking brake, and switch the ignition off. Take the key fob away from the truck so modules go to sleep. Wear safety glasses and gloves, and keep metal tools away from the posts: with two parallel batteries, a short across either one can deliver a huge amount of current, so work on one battery at a time and tuck cables safely aside.
3
Disconnect both old batteries
Start on the passenger-side battery. Loosen the nut on the negative (-) cable clamp (10mm on the driver's side, sometimes 8mm on the passenger side), twist the cable off the post, and tuck it where it cannot touch metal. Remove the positive (+) cable the same way. Unbolt the 10mm hold-down bracket at the battery's base and lift the heavy battery straight out of the tray. Repeat the exact same procedure on the driver's-side battery. Photograph the cable routing and hold-down positions before you remove anything so the new pair goes back identically.
4
Install the matched pair correctly
Set the first new Group 94R/H7 battery into its tray, clean the cable clamps with a wire brush, and secure the hold-down bracket. Reconnect the positive (+) cable first, then the negative (-), tightening each clamp until the cable cannot twist on the post. Repeat for the second new battery.
5
Verify charging and cranking strength
Start the truck and confirm there are no warning lights. If you have a multimeter, expect about 12.6 volts with the engine off and 13.5 to 14.8 volts while running, which confirms the alternator is charging both batteries evenly. Stop and recheck your work if a battery feels hot, smells of sulfur, or cranking is still slow, and recycle both old batteries for the core refunds.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Buying by appearance instead of group size, CCA, polarity, and hold-down fit
- • Shorting the positive terminal to the body with a metal tool
- • Lifting the battery by damaged terminals or leaving it unsecured
- • Skipping battery registration, window/clock resets, or charging-system checks when required
- • Assuming a new battery fixes a parasitic draw or charging fault
