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2012–2015 Ram C/V

2012-2015 Ram C/V — Front Brake Pad Replacement

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 1-2 hours $101 DIY

Save $264 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $365

Quick answer: Front Brake Pad Replacement on a 2012–2015 Ram C/V is rated Moderate and takes about 1-2 hours. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $101. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$101.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Front brake pad set (2012-2015 Ram C/V) — $75.00
Brake cleaner — $10.00
Brake hardware kit — $16.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Secure Van and Loosen Lugs

Park on flat ground, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Break the lug nuts loose on the ground, pop the hood, and note the master cylinder's yellow cap; you'll watch the fluid level later.

2

Lift and Remove Wheels

Raise the front onto jack stands — never work under a jack alone. Remove the wheels, then turn the steering toward your side to expose the slide bolts. Check pad thickness through each caliper to confirm both sides were due.

3

Remove Caliper and Pads

Unbolt the caliper, slide it off, and hang it from the strut. Slide out the pads and clips, noting their orientation. Inspect the rotor for scoring and a raised lip; replace if grooved or below minimum thickness.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I measure the rotor against the minimum thickness stamped on the hat before deciding — I've put new pads on a below-minimum rotor and felt it pulse within a thousand miles.

4

Prep Bracket and Hardware

Wire-brush the bracket's pad lands to clean metal and grease the clips. Pull the slide pins and inspect the boots — a torn boot admits water, seizing the pin and tapering pad wear. Re-grease pins and confirm they slide freely.

5

Install New Pads

Press the piston back flush with a C-clamp, using an old pad. Watch the reservoir; siphon DOT 3 out if it nears MAX. Seat the pads in the greased clips, refit the caliper, torque bolts to 26 ft-lbs.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I press the piston back slowly and keep an eye on the reservoir — I've seen a shop's topped-off fluid overflow onto paint before anyone noticed.

6

Reassemble and Bed-In

Refit the wheels, lower the van, and torque the lugs to 100 ft-lbs in a star pattern. Pump the pedal until firm — the first pumps feel soft while the piston seats. Top up with DOT 3 to MAX and refit the yellow cap. Bed the pads with moderate stops from 30 mph, cooling between them; avoid hard stops for the first couple hundred miles.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Mixing up inner and outer pads, causing noise.
  • • Not replacing worn hardware, leading to pad drag.
  • • Skipping the test drive bedding procedure.