2012–2015 Ram C/V
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110
Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2012–2015 Ram C/V is rated Easy and takes about 10 minutes. You'll need 3 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine air filter for 2012-2015 Ram C/V; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
The engine air filter is a flat rectangular panel, 12.8 by 9.8 inches, living in a black plastic airbox at the front of the engine bay. Follow the wide intake snorkel from the throttle body forward and you'll find it.
Park with the engine off and let it cool. Keep a rag and a small tray handy for any screws so they don't roll into the bay.
I don't slam the airbox lid. Dropping it hard can unseat the filter, and you won't know until the next service.
Work around the rim of the airbox lid and release every fastener: flip the spring clips/latches outward with your fingers, or back out the small screws with the screwdriver and drop them in the tray. Count them as you go — if the lid still holds on one corner, a fastener is still there and forcing the lid will crack the rim.
Lift the lid straight up. Do not yank the lid sideways or disconnect anything — just lift it enough to get the old panel out. Treat the sensor wiring as fragile.
Lift the old panel straight out and compare its size to the new one before tossing it — the C/V only takes this one panel shape, so a mismatch means the parts counter handed you the wrong filter. Vacuum or wipe the lower half of the airbox clean, and check the seal channel around the rim for cracks or a flattened gasket that would let dust bypass the filter.
Drop the new panel flat into the lower housing so its gasket seals evenly all the way around — a cocked panel is the classic cause of a whistling intake. Lower the lid squarely, then re-latch every clip or re-run every screw, working around the rim so the lid pulls down evenly. Give the lid a light push at each corner; it should not rock.
Idle should be smooth and steady with no check-engine light. Start the engine and listen for a hiss or whistle around the airbox, which means a fastener isn't seated or the panel is crooked.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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