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2012–2014 Toyota Camry

2012-2014 Toyota Camry — Spark Plug Replacement

🔧 Easy 30-45 minutes

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$36.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
DENSO Iridium Long Life Spark Plug (2.5L 2AR-FE, qty 4) SK16HR11 $24.00
Iridium Spark Plug (3.5L V6 2GR-FE, qty 6 — confirm exact part number for your trim) — —
Dielectric (silicone) grease — light coat inside coil boots — $12.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Work on a cold engine and open the hood

Spark plugs are threaded into an aluminum head, so always start with a fully cold engine to avoid stripping threads and getting burned. Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and prop the hood open.

2

Remove the engine cover

Grab the plastic 2AR-FE engine cover and pull it straight up. It is held by rubber grommets, no bolts. Set it aside.

3

Disconnect the ignition coil connectors

There is one coil-on-plug ignition coil per cylinder. Press the small release clip on each electrical connector and pull it free. Do all four before touching bolts.

4

Remove the coil bolts and pull the coils

Using a 10mm socket, remove the single retaining bolt from each coil, then twist gently and pull each coil straight out of its well. If a coil boot is stuck, twist more rather than yanking.

5

Blow out the spark plug wells

Use compressed air or a shop vacuum to clear dirt and grit from around each spark plug before removal. Debris falling into an open cylinder is the classic cause of a ruined job.

6

Remove the old spark plugs

With a 16mm (5/8 inch) spark plug socket and an extension, break each plug loose and unscrew it by hand once free. Note the condition of the old plugs: oil-fouled plugs on the 2.5L 2AR-FE can point to the oil-consumption issue these engines are known for.

7

Install the new plugs and torque them

New iridium plugs come pre-gapped at 0.044 in (1.1 mm). Do not re-gap them. Thread each plug in BY HAND until it seats, then tighten with a torque wrench to 13 ft-lb. Hand-starting is what prevents cross-threading the aluminum head.

8

Reinstall the coils and bolts

Push each coil back onto its plug until it seats, reinstall the 10mm retaining bolts and snug to 5 ft-lb, then reconnect each electrical connector until the clip clicks. Work one cylinder at a time if you want to guarantee nothing gets mixed up.

9

Replace the engine cover and test

Press the engine cover back onto its grommets. Start the engine and let it idle for a couple of minutes. It should idle smooth and quiet with no check engine light. If a misfire code like P0300 appears, recheck that every coil connector is fully seated.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Cross-threading a plug by starting it with a ratchet instead of by hand.
  • • Over-torquing past 13 ft-lb, which can strip the head or crack the plug.
  • • Re-gapping pre-gapped iridium plugs and damaging the fine electrodes.
  • • Installing cheap copper plugs instead of OEM-spec iridium, which shortens the service interval from 120,000 miles to about 30,000.
  • • Forgetting to reconnect one coil connector, causing a P030X misfire code right after the job.
  • • Skipping the blow-out step and dropping debris into the cylinder.
  • • Using anti-seize on coated threads, which changes clamping load and can cause over-torquing.