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2012–2017 Toyota Camry

2012-2017 Toyota Camry - Front Brake Pad Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 1-2 hours $150 DIY 5 views

Save $250 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $400

Quick answer: Front Brake Pad Replacement on a 2012–2017 Toyota Camry is rated Advanced and takes about 1-2 hours. You'll need 8 tools for this job, and parts cost about $150. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$150.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Front Brake Pads TRQ BKA12058 $50.00
Brake Rotors TRQ BRA13974 $100.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Loosen lugs and raise the vehicle

296mm (11.65 in) vented front rotors — same all trims. Need: pads, 296mm rotors, 14mm/17mm/21mm sockets. Torque: lugs 76 ft-lbs (21mm), slide bolts 25 ft-lbs (14mm), bracket bolts 79 ft-lbs (17mm). Ignore the conflicting '90 ft-lbs' figure — use 25/79. Loosen lugs, jack up, stands.

2

Remove the wheel

Remove the front wheel (21mm) to expose the 296mm vented rotor and single-piston floating caliper. Note the mechanical squeal tab. The pads are interchangeable — no inner/outer distinction, which simplifies the job.

3

Remove the caliper

Remove the caliper slide bolts (14mm, 25 ft-lbs) and slide the caliper off; support it with wire. For rotor replacement, remove the bracket bolts (17mm, 79 ft-lbs). If the rotor is stuck, thread 8x1.25mm bolts through its threaded holes to push it off (Toyota trick). Verify the new rotor is 296mm vented.

4

Remove old pads and hardware

Remove the old pads — they're INTERCHANGEABLE, no inner/outer orientation to worry about (except the squeal tab). Inspect the 296mm rotor for scoring or minimum thickness. Clean the bracket and confirm the slide pins move freely.

5

Compress the piston

Push the single piston back — no rotation. Open the reservoir cap first. Optional: open the bleeder screw when compressing to avoid pushing old fluid back to the ABS module. The piston should retract smoothly; if seized, replace the caliper.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

In my experience, cracking the bleeder while you compress the piston is the pro move here — it keeps old, contaminated fluid out of the ABS module. Just catch the fluid and close the bleeder before you pump the pedal.

6

Clean and install hardware

Clean the bracket and install new hardware. Install the new pads — they're interchangeable, so either pad goes in either position. Ensure they slide freely and position the squeal tab correctly.

7

Install new pads and caliper

Slide the caliper back over the pads. Reinstall slide bolts to 25 ft-lbs. If you removed the bracket, reinstall to 79 ft-lbs (ignore the conflicting '90 ft-lbs' — use 25/79). Ensure the hose isn't twisted. Pump the pedal to seat the pads.

8

Refit wheel and pump the pedal

Reinstall the wheel and torque to 76 ft-lbs (103 Nm) in a star pattern. Lower the Camry and bed the pads. Test drive: braking should be smooth and strong. If you opened the bleeder, verify the pedal is firm (no air).

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Not properly securing the vehicle with jack stands before starting the repair.
  • • Failing to clean the brake components with brake parts cleaner before installation.
  • • Over-tightening the caliper bolts, which can damage the caliper or bracket.