Quick answer: Engine Mount Replacement on a 2003–2014 Volvo XC90 is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 10 tools for this job, and parts cost about $50. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Front Engine Mount Optional |
MTA34480 |
$74.95 |
|
| Torque Strut Engine Mount |
MTA34470 |
$49.95 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Support the engine and disconnect the battery
Park the 2003-2014 Volvo XC90 on level ground, set the parking brake, and disconnect the negative battery cable. Support the engine from above with an engine support bar or from below with a jack and a wood block under the oil pan — never leave the engine hanging on remaining mounts alone. Wear gloves and eye protection.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I pull the XC90 negative cable and zip-tie it to the hood strut bracket. Cables have a memory and they spring back — I learned that lesson when one reconnected itself and reset my whole engine-support setup.
2
Locate the failed mount and remove nearby covers
Identify which mount is bad (oil-soaked rubber, cracked insulator, or metal-to-metal contact) on the 2003-2014 Volvo XC90. Remove any engine covers, air boxes, or undertrays blocking access to that mount’s fasteners.
3
Unbolt the mount from the engine and chassis
Remove the through-bolt or nuts securing the mount to the engine bracket, then the fasteners into the frame/subframe. Note any ground straps, heat shields, or alignment dowels. Lower or raise the engine slightly only as needed for clearance — do not force the mount.
4
Compare and install the new mount
Seat it fully on the 2003-2014 Volvo XC90, install fasteners finger-tight first, then torque to the specified values once the engine is back at rest height.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've been bitten by wrong mounts before, so I always check stud pattern, snubber orientation, and hardness marks against the old mount first. Five minutes at the bench on this XC90 beats an hour of re-seating it.
5
Remove the support and check clearances
Remove the engine support bar/jack. Confirm the 2003-2014 Volvo XC90 mount is not twisted and that hoses, belts, and wiring have clearance. Reinstall covers and reconnect the battery.
6
Idle and road-test for vibration
Start the 2003-2014 Volvo XC90 and check for clunks or excessive movement in gear (auto: Park-to-Drive; manual: clutch engage). Road-test for vibration under acceleration and braking. Recheck mount torque after a short heat cycle if specified.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I idle the XC90 and then drive it after a mount swap, because a mount that looks seated can still transmit vibration under load. I feel for shake at idle and clunk on takeoff before I call it done.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Not properly supporting the engine during the repair, leading to potential injury or damage.
- • Forgetting to torque bolts to manufacturer specifications, which can result in mount failure or engine misalignment.
- • Using incorrect tools or sizes, causing damage to components or hindering the repair process.
