Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 1999–2004 Chevrolet Tracker is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 4 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 1999-2004 Chevrolet Tracker; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm engine and plug fitment
Confirm your engine before ordering. The 2.0L four takes the NGK IFR5J11 iridium/platinum (stock 7418), pre-gapped at 0.044 in (1.1 mm). The 2.5L V6 takes the NGK BKR5EGP platinum gapped at 0.040 in instead. Everything sits on top of the valve cover in the open.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I confirm the engine before ordering — the 2.0L four takes NGK IFR5J11 gapped at 0.044 in, the 2.5L V6 takes NGK BKR5EGP at 0.040 in. Different plugs, different gaps; get it right the first time.
2
Cool and expose the plugs
Let the 2.0L cool completely. The head is aluminum. Disconnect the negative battery cable. There's no intake or cover puzzle on the Tracker's four-cylinder. Stage a 5/8 in (16 mm) spark plug socket with a rubber insert and a 6-inch extension.
3
Remove the coils
Squeeze each coil connector's locking tab and pull it straight off without pulling the wiring itself. Remove the single bolt from each coil and lift the coils straight up, keeping them in order on a rag.
4
Remove and install plugs
Remove each old plug with the 5/8 in (16 mm) socket, turning counterclockwise. Hold each old plug next to a new NGK IFR5J11: reach and thread length must match exactly. Verify the 0.044 in gap on every new plug even though they're pre-gapped — never pry on the fine iridium center electrode. Thread each new plug in BY HAND for several turns to avoid cross-threading the aluminum head, then tighten to the manufacturer's spec in your owner's manual. No impact wrench, and skip anti-seize on these plated threads.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I always thread every plug in by hand for several turns — BY HAND. The aluminum head cross-threads if you look at it wrong, and a helicoil on a Tracker is a job you don't want.
5
Reconnect and verify
Press each coil firmly onto its plug until it seats, refit the coil bolts, and reconnect every electrical connector until the tabs click. Reconnect the negative battery cable. Start the Tracker and check for a smooth idle with no check-engine light. Take it for a drive, then rescan for codes. On these simple four-cylinders a post-job misfire is almost always a coil connector that isn't fully latched — tug-test each one before buying any parts.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Using the wrong plug or assuming a pre-gapped plug needs no verification
- • Blowing debris into an open cylinder or plug well
- • Cross-threading a plug or tightening it without a torque wrench
- • Overusing anti-seize or dielectric grease on the plug threads
- • Mixing coil connectors or ignoring a misfire after reassembly
