2011–2023 Dodge Charger
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $396 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $462
Quick answer: Replace Thermostat on a 2011–2023 Dodge Charger is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 8 tools for this job, and parts cost about $66. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Thermostat Assembly | TRQ ECA59652 | $40.95 | |
| Coolant | — | $20.00 | |
| Thermostat Housing Gasket | — | $5.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Work only on a cold engine. Place a drain pan under the radiator petcock or lower hose and drain enough coolant to bring the level below the thermostat housing. Capture coolant for reuse or proper recycling. Wear gloves and eye protection.
Find the thermostat housing — typically at the engine end of the upper radiator hose or on a coolant housing. Remove an engine cover, air-intake tube, or heat shield if it blocks bolt access. Note hose routing and clamp positions.
Disconnect the radiator hose if needed, then remove the housing bolts. Twist gently to break the gasket seal — do not pry against thin aluminum. Lift off the housing and remove the thermostat. Note spring/jiggle-pin orientation for reassembly.
Clean all old gasket material or RTV from the housing and engine mating surfaces without gouging aluminum. Inspect the housing for warpage or corrosion. Replace the rubber gasket or O-ring; never reuse a crushed seal.
Install the new thermostat in the correct orientation (spring toward the engine on most designs; jiggle pin at the specified clock position if required). Fit the new gasket, reinstall the housing, and tighten bolts evenly to the specified torque.
I've found that that jiggle pin isn't decorative — it bleeds trapped air past the thermostat on fill-up. Clock it like the old one was, or you'll chase an air pocket that mimics overheating.
Refill with the correct coolant type. Bleed air per the vehicle procedure, then run to operating temperature and confirm the upper hose gets hot (thermostat opened) and the gauge stays normal. Recheck the level after cooldown and inspect for leaks.
I know the upper hose going hot is your proof the thermostat actually opened. If the gauge climbs and that hose stays cold, shut it down — you've got a stuck thermostat or an air lock.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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