2012–2017 Audi A5
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $1,012 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $1,200
Quick answer: Thermostat Remove and Replace on a 2012–2017 Audi A5 is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $188. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine Coolant Thermostat Kit | 06E121111M | $163.49 | |
| Coolant Flange Seal | 06E121139E | $20.00 | |
| O-Ring Cross Pipe | 06E121119A | $5.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Work only on a cold engine. Place a drain pan under the radiator/lower hose and drain enough coolant to bring the level below the thermostat housing. Capture coolant for reuse or recycling. Wear gloves and eye protection.
On the 2012-2017 Audi A5 3.2L: find the thermostat housing — usually on the engine end of the upper radiator hose, or on a housing fed by a smaller coolant pipe. Remove engine covers, an air-intake tube, or a heat shield if they block access. Note hose routing before disconnecting.
I locate the A5 thermostat housing and I label every hose and connector with masking tape — the 3.2L buries the thermostat. I have disconnected five things to reach one, and the labels are what get them all back right.
Twist gently to break the gasket seal — do not pry against thin aluminum. Lift off the housing and remove the thermostat. Note which direction the spring/jiggle pin faced.
Clean all old gasket material or RTV from the housing and engine mating surfaces without gouging aluminum. Check the housing for warpage or corrosion. Replace the rubber gasket/O-ring; do not reuse a crushed seal.
I clean the A5 thermostat mating surfaces — every bit of old gasket comes off, plastic scraper on aluminum. I have seen a thermostat housing leak from a surface that was almost clean, and almost is not clean.
Install the new thermostat in the correct orientation (spring toward the engine on most designs; jiggle pin at the prescribed clock position if specified). Fit the new gasket, reinstall the housing, and tighten bolts evenly to the specified torque — overtightening cracks housings.
Refill with the correct coolant. Bleed air, then run the engine until it reaches operating temperature and confirm the upper radiator hose gets hot (thermostat opened) and the gauge/reading is normal.
I refill the A5, bleed, and verify temperature — I watch the gauge climb and the heater blow hot. I have seen trapped air cause a 3.2L to overheat after a thermostat job, and I bleed until I am certain.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2012–2017
2012–2017
2008–2011
2008–2011
2008–2011
2008–2011
