2004–2008 Ford F-150
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $119 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $174
Quick answer: Oil and Filter Change on a 2004–2008 Ford F-150 is rated Easy and takes about 30–45 minutes. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $55. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Motorcraft FL-820S oil filter or equivalent | — | $9.00 | |
| 5W-20 motor oil, 7 quarts (5.4L V8) | — | $39.00 | |
| Drain plug gasket | — | $7.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Warm the 5.4L Triton V8 for 2–3 minutes so the 7 quarts of oil drain fully, park on level ground, set the parking brake. High clearance usually means no jacking. Shut off and open the hood.
Video at 0:00
Crawl under the front and find the 16mm drain plug at the rear of the stamped steel pan. The Motorcraft FL-820S filter mounts vertically on the driver side. Position a large drain pan under the plug, shifted rearward.
Video at 1:00
Loosen the 16mm drain plug with a socket and finish by hand, pulling clear as warm oil rushes out. Drain several minutes to a slow drip on the 7-quart sump. Inspect the gasket; replace if cracked or flattened.
Video at 2:00
Drain pan under the filter; loosen the FL-820S counterclockwise with a cap wrench. These hold a lot of oil — tip it upright right after spinning it off. Wipe the filter adapter clean and verify the old gasket isn't stuck.
Video at 3:30
Coat the filter's gasket with 5W-20 and pre-fill it halfway to protect the 5.4L's timing from a dry start. Spin it on by hand until the gasket touches, then tighten 3/4 turn more — hand-tight makes removal easy next time.
I pre-fill the filter halfway before it goes on — the 5.4L's timing gear hates a dry start, and I've seen a half-full filter bring oil pressure up noticeably faster.
Video at 4:45
Reinstall the drain plug by hand, then snug it with the 16mm socket — don't overtighten and strip the pan threads. A firm snug with a new gasket seals reliably. Wipe the pan clean for easy leak detection later.
Video at 5:30
Pour 7 quarts of 5W-20 through the oil fill on the passenger-side valve cover with a funnel — the 5.4L 3-valve needs all 7; 6 leaves it a quart low and risks phaser rattle. Reinstall the cap.
I don't short this engine — the full 7 quarts matters, because I've heard the cam phasers rattle on startup from a quart low, and that noise means expensive trouble.
Video at 6:15
Check the dipstick, start the engine, watch the oil pressure gauge rise. Check the drain plug and filter for leaks while running, shut off, recheck the level after a minute, then reset the oil life monitor via the cluster menu.
Video at 7:00
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2004–2008
2004–2008
2004–2008
2009–2014
2009–2014
2009–2014
Acura ILX · 2013–2022
Acura RDX · 2010–2012
Acura RDX · 2019–2024
Acura RL · 2005–2012
Acura RLX · 2014–2020
Acura TL · 2004–2008
Acura TSX · 2009–2014
Acura ZDX · 2010–2013
