2004–2008 Ford F-150
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 24, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026
Save $306 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $365
Quick answer: Front Brake Pads Replacement on a 2004–2008 Ford F-150 is rated Moderate and takes about 60–90 minutes per axle. You'll need 10 tools for this job, and parts cost about $59. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Front brake pads (2004–2008 F-150, ceramic or semi-metallic) | — | $44.00 | |
| Front brake rotors (if scored or warped) Optional | — | $181.00 | |
| Brake parts cleaner | — | $8.00 | |
| High-temp brake grease | — | $7.00 | |
| Brake pad clips (new) | — | — |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Park level, shift into Park, set the parking brake, and chock the rear wheels. Break the front lugs loose with a 21mm socket on the ground. Jack the front up under the frame and set it on jack stands.
Video at 0:00
Remove the front wheels to expose the calipers. Remove the two 13mm caliper bolts and lift the caliper off the anchor bracket. Hang it from the coil spring with a wire hanger so the brake hose bears no weight.
Video at 1:30
Pull the pads and clips from the bracket, then pull the rotor off the hub — if rusted on, thread two 8mm bolts into the removal holes to press it free. Wire-brush the hub face so the rotor sits flat.
That 8mm-bolt trick for stuck rotors is worth remembering — I've threaded them into the removal holes and pressed a rotor straight off without hammering, because hammering a stuck rotor is how hub bearings get ruined.
Video at 3:00
Press both pistons back with a C-clamp across the old pad. Open the reservoir cap first and siphon fluid if the level nears the top — the pistons must be retracted to fit over the new pads and rotor.
I always open the reservoir cap before pressing the pistons back — I've seen trapped pressure blow the cap off or push fluid past the master cylinder seals, and I siphon fluid out if the level is already high.
Video at 4:30
Slide the new rotor onto the clean hub, held by one loose lug nut. Install new pad clips in the bracket and grease the pad ears and slide contact points. Set the new pads in with wear indicators positioned correctly.
Video at 6:00
Set the caliper over the new pads and rotor, threading the 13mm caliper bolts in by hand to avoid cross-threading. Tighten to specification, typically 25–30 ft-lbs. Confirm the caliper slides smoothly on its pins before proceeding.
Video at 7:15
Remount the wheel and tighten the six 21mm lug nuts in a star pattern to 150 ft-lbs. Lower the truck and re-torque the lugs with the tire on the ground — proper lug torque prevents rotor warping from uneven clamping.
Video at 8:30
Pump the brake pedal until firm. Road-test at low speed with several firm stops to bed the pads, then check for pulling or vibration. The job is done when the pedal is high and firm and stops are smooth.
Video at 9:30
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2004–2008
2004–2008
2004–2008
2009–2014
2009–2014
2009–2014
Ford Escape · 2005–2007
Ford Explorer · 2021–2024
Ford F-350 · 2011–2016
Ford Fusion · 2006–2012
Ford Mondeo · 1993–2006
Ford Mustang · 1999–2004
Ford Mustang · 2011–2014
Ford Probe · 1989–1997
