2003–2007 Honda Accord

2003-2007 Honda Accord - Front Brake Pad Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧 Easy 45–75 minutes $42 DIY 1 views

Save $208 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $250

Quick answer: Front Brake Pad Replacement on a 2003–2007 Honda Accord is rated Easy and takes about 45–75 minutes. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $42. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost

$42.00

Part Name	Part Number	Price	Buy
Front Brake Pads	D1060-7993	$35.00	Amazon
Brake cleaner	—	$7.00	Amazon

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

Loosen the lugs and raise the front end

Crack the front lug nuts loose while the Accord is on the ground, then jack the front up and set it on jack stands under the subframe. Chock the rear wheels. Remove the front wheels so you can do both sides — brake pads are always replaced as an axle pair, never one side alone.

Remove only the lower caliper bolt

Seventh-generation Accords use Honda's swing-up caliper design: you only need to remove the lower caliper bolt, and the whole caliper pivots upward on the upper slide pin.

Slide out the old pads and shims

With the caliper swung up, the pads lift straight out of the bracket. Note the thin stainless shims stuck to the back of each pad — Honda relies on these shims for quiet operation, so do not throw them away.

Push the piston home with a C-clamp

Lay an old pad across the piston face and squeeze the piston back into the caliper bore with a C-clamp, going slowly — you are pushing brake fluid back up to the reservoir.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I watch the reservoir while squeezing the piston back — I've overflowed a master cylinder pushing fluid up too fast, and brake fluid on paint is a disaster.

Clean and grease the slide pins

Coat the pins with fresh silicone brake grease and work them in and out of their bores — they should glide with no sticking.

Fit the new pads, shims, and anti-squeal

Confirm the pad ears sit fully down in the stainless clips. Order pads for your exact trim — the V6 brakes are larger than the four-cylinder's, and the pads do not interchange.

Reinstall the wheels, pump the pedal, and bed in the pads

Reinstall the wheels, lower the car, and pump the brake pedal until it feels firm. Bed the pads with several moderate slowdowns from 40 mph to 10 mph, then drive gently for a while to let everything cool evenly.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I pump the pedal until it's firm before driving — I've rolled out of the driveway with a soft pedal after a brake job, and once was enough.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

• Removing both caliper bolts and fighting the upper pin for no reason — only the lower one needs to come out
• Throwing away the stainless shims and getting brake squeal for the next 30,000 miles
• Forgetting the pedal pump and rolling into the street with a soft pedal