2017–2022 Honda CR-V
By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026
Save $139 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $180
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2017–2022 Honda CR-V is rated Moderate and takes about 1–2 hours. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $41. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Spark plugs (correct heat range) | — | $35.00 | |
| Dielectric grease | — | $6.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
The four plugs live deep in the head under individual coil packs, beneath the plastic engine cover. Buy four iridium plugs specified for the 1.5T; check the gap value on the under-hood emissions sticker or owner's manual first — never guess it.
Beneath it are the four coil packs in a row, each with a gray electrical connector and a single 10mm hold-down bolt. Note how the wiring harness is routed over the coils so you can put it back exactly as it was.
Blow compressed air around the base of each coil before touching it — the recessed plug wells collect grit that would otherwise fall into the cylinder. Squeeze the connector release tab and unplug each coil, remove the 10mm hold-down bolt, and pull the coil straight up with a gentle twist. The 1.5T's plugs sit deep, so the coils have long boots; if a boot resists, twist — never yank straight up, which can tear the boot off inside the well. Set the coils aside in firing order.
I know grab the 14mm thin-wall socket before you start — a standard 5/8-inch plug socket physically won't go down these wells, and finding out mid-job means the car sits apart while you drive to the parts store.
These plugs use the smaller M12 thread, so use a 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket with a rubber insert on a 6-inch extension — a standard 5/8-inch socket will not fit down the well. Back each plug out slowly with a 3/8-inch ratchet; owners report the factory plugs can require a firm initial break-loose, which is normal, but they should then turn out smoothly. Lift the socket and extension out as one unit so the rubber insert carries the plug up with it instead of dropping it back down the tube.
Check each new plug's gap with a wire-type gauge against the value on the emissions sticker or in the owner's manual, and adjust only if the plug manufacturer says the design is adjustable — the iridium fine-wire electrodes are delicate.
Once finger-tight, give the seating turn shown on the plug box, about a quarter to a half turn past finger-tight for washer-seat plugs, and stop.
In my experience, those little M12 threads are unforgiving — if you feel any resistance in the first turns, stop and back it out. Forcing it cross-threads the hole, and a helicoil in an aluminum head is a job you don't want.
Press each coil firmly down until the boot seats on the plug, reinstall the 10mm hold-down bolts, and reconnect each connector until the tab clicks. Lay the harness back in its original routing and press the engine cover onto its grommets. Start the engine and let it idle for two minutes — the 1.5T idles glass-smooth when the job is right, and any stumble or flashing check-engine light points to a coil that is not fully seated or a connector left unplugged. Take a short drive including one brisk acceleration to confirm there is no misfire under boost.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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