Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2016–2022 Honda HR-V is rated Advanced and takes about 30–45 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Correct spark plug set for 2016-2022 Honda HR-V; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment |
— |
$115.00 |
|
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional |
— |
$35.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm the easy layout of the 1.8L R18
Good news: this is one of the simplest spark plug jobs on the road. Park on flat pavement, set the brake, let the engine cool, and pop the hood. No battery disconnect is strictly required, but the negative cable off is never wrong.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
Quick word from me — I've been under there: No battery disconnect is strictly required, but the negative cable off is never wrong.
2
Unplug the harness and unbolt each coil
Each coil has a simple electrical connector — squeeze its locking tab and slide it straight back off the coil. Remove the bolt, grip the coil body (never the wiring), and pull it straight up out of the tube.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've seen this exact mistake come through the shop: Remove the bolt, grip the coil body (never the wiring), and pull it straight up out of the tube.
3
Blow out the R18 wells and pull the old plugs
The plug wells collect grit right where you do not want it. A 5/8-inch spark plug socket on a 6-inch extension reaches every plug easily — break it loose, then spin it out by hand on the extension.
4
Gap-check the HR-V’s new iridium plugs
Check every new plug's gap with a feeler gauge against your owner's manual or the emissions sticker under the hood — even pre-gapped plugs get knocked around in shipping.
5
Hand-start plugs into the R18’s aluminum head
Thread each plug into the aluminum head by hand using only the extension — it should spin freely all the way down with zero resistance. Any binding means it is cross-threaded: back it out and restart it, because forcing it ruins the head.
6
Reseat the coils and click the connectors home
Push each coil straight down until it seats fully on the plug, snug the single 10mm bolt — snug, not gorilla-tight — and reconnect each harness connector until it clicks. Give each connector a gentle tug to confirm it is locked.
7
Start up and confirm the smooth idle
Start the engine and listen. It should catch immediately and idle smooth — the R18 is a famously smooth idler when healthy. Take a short drive with some gentle acceleration to confirm clean power delivery, then you are done.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Yanking a coil by its wiring instead of the body — always pull the coil itself, straight up.
- • Skipping the well blow-out because the job looks easy — grit still falls in if you rush.
- • Mixing up which coil came from which cylinder when one looks suspect — keep them in order.
