Quick answer: Brake Pads on a 2016–2022 Honda Pilot is rated Advanced and takes about 60–90 minutes per axle. You'll need 12 tools for this job, and parts cost about $75. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Brake Pads (axle set) |
— |
$45.00 |
|
| Brake Lubricant (caliper slides/pins) |
— |
$8.00 |
|
| Brake Cleaner Spray |
— |
$7.00 |
|
| Brake Hardware Kit |
— |
$15.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Park, chock, and lift the front
Park the Pilot on a flat, level surface, shift to Park, and set the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels, then loosen the front lug nuts a half turn while the tires are still on the ground. Raise the front with a floor jack and lower the SUV onto jack stands at the front support points. Remove the wheel to access the single-piston floating front caliper — the parking brake hardware acts on the rear axle only on this third-generation Pilot.
2
Open the brake-fluid reservoir
Open the hood and locate the brake-fluid reservoir. Compressing the pistons will raise the fluid level, so if it's at MAX, draw some out with a turkey baster.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I've learned to wipe around that reservoir cap before you crack it open. One speck of grit dropping into the fluid ends up in the ABS module, and that's a four-figure problem from a 30-second step.
3
Hang the caliper and note the pin positions
The Pilot shares its front caliper hardware family with the MDX (the D1723 guide-pin pattern): hang the caliper from the strut or a control arm with a wire hook, keep the hose slack, and note the pin positions in their bores.
4
Pull the pads and examine the rotors
Pull the old pads from the bracket and check the wear-indicator tab — Honda fits a metal squealer that chirps against the rotor when the pads are nearly gone.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've learned: tow or haul with your Pilot? Check those rotors extra hard — this truck cooks front rotors. Blueing or heat cracks mean the rotor goes with the pads, no matter how thick it measures.
5
Compress the piston and clean the guide pins
Extract the guide pins, wipe away the old grease, and inspect the dust boots for cracks. Apply fresh high-temperature silicone brake grease to the pins (never petroleum-based grease on rubber parts) and slide them back into their bores to confirm free movement.
6
Install new pads and hardware, remount the caliper
Wire-brush the bracket's pad slides and install the new abutment clips. Torque the caliper and bracket fasteners to the vehicle spec, remount the wheel, and torque the lug nuts to the vehicle spec in a star pattern.
7
Seat the pedal and bed the pads
Put the reservoir cap back on and pump the brake pedal until it turns firm — the piston has to close the gap to the thicker pads. Verify the fluid level is between the marks. On a gentle test drive, bed the pads with several moderate slowdowns from city speed to a crawl without stopping fully, then cruise a few minutes to cool the rotors evenly. Avoid hard braking for the first couple hundred miles while the pads mate to the rotor surface.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Installing the pads without the wear-indicator tab in the inner position, so the squeal warning never happens.
- • Letting brake grease or fingerprints contaminate the pad friction material.
- • Reusing worn abutment clips, which lets the pads rock and click in the bracket.
