Quick answer: Starter on a 2017–2020 Hyundai Elantra is rated Advanced and takes about 45-90 minutes. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $110. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Starter motor |
— |
$110.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Rule out a weak battery first
A clicking starter that does not crank on the 2017–2020 Elantra usually means low battery voltage, corroded terminals or a bad ground strap — not a dead starter. Turn the key and listen. Load-test the battery and clean both terminals before buying any parts.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
I've learned the hard way — Don't skip the ground strap when you 'load-test the battery' — a corroded strap makes a good battery look dead. Clean both terminals and check that strap before you spend a dime on a starter.
2
Disconnect the negative battery terminal
Disconnect the negative battery terminal first and secure the cable so it cannot touch the post again. You will be working underneath the car for most of this job, so confirm the car is in Park with the parking brake set before you crawl under.
3
Get under the passenger side
On the 2.0L Nu engine the starter is accessible from underneath the vehicle on the passenger side of the engine block. Raise the front and support it on jack stands, then remove the lower splash shield. The upper mounting bolt is the hard one — you will need extensions and a universal joint to reach it, and some owners remove the radiator fan for extra room, which is worth considering if you are struggling.
4
Disconnect the starter wiring
Photograph the cable routing before touching it. Disconnect the heavy B+ cable nut and tuck the cable aside so the terminal cannot touch the block, then release the smaller solenoid signal wire.
5
Unbolt the starter
Remove the mounting bolts with extensions and a universal joint for the hard-to-reach upper bolt — keep the socket straight on the head so it does not round.
6
Install the correct 13-tooth starter
Compare the new starter with the old one side by side before fitting. Slide the new starter into the bellhousing bore, start both bolts by hand, tighten evenly, then reconnect the signal wire and the B+ cable with clean, snug terminals.
7
Reassemble and verify
Refit the splash shield with all of its fasteners, and reinstall the radiator fan if you removed it. Reconnect the negative battery terminal and tighten the clamp. Crank the engine — it should spin fast and engage cleanly without grinding.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Buying the wrong-tooth-count starter — the 2017–2020 Elantra 2.0L uses a 13-tooth pinion, while earlier 1.8L models used 11 teeth; a mismatch will grind and damage the flywheel.
- • Assuming the no-crank is the starter when the battery is just weak — a clicking starter that does not crank usually means low voltage, bad terminals or a bad ground, not a dead motor.
- • Skipping the upper bolt because it is hard to reach, and leaving the new starter hanging on one bolt — use the universal joint to get it properly.
