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2015–2023 Dodge Challenger

2015-2023 Dodge Challenger - Starter

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 2-4 hours $220 DIY

Save $430 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $650

Quick answer: Starter on a 2015–2023 Dodge Challenger is rated Advanced and takes about 2-4 hours. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $220. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$220.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Replacement starter motor — $220.00
Starter terminal hardware or heat shield fasteners (if needed) Optional — $20.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm the no-crank diagnosis

Park safely, set the parking brake, ignition off. Verify battery charge, then test battery voltage, cable/ground voltage drop, fuses, relay, and the start signal. Clicking or no-crank can also mean a weak battery or bad connection.

2

Disconnect the battery and gain access

Disconnect the negative (−) battery cable and isolate it. Locate the starter at the bellhousing and clear access — intake duct, splash shield, skid plate, or heat shield. If below, raise and support the vehicle on rated jack stands.

3

Photograph and disconnect starter wiring

Photograph the starter connections before removal. Remove the nut and main B+ cable, then unplug or remove the solenoid trigger wire. Keep the energized cable insulated from ground and inspect the terminals for heat damage, corrosion, or loose crimps.

4

Remove and compare the old starter

Support the starter while removing its mounting bolts, then lower it out without stressing wiring. Compare the replacement against the old unit: mounting ears, nose length, gear, solenoid clocking, connector locations, and any heat shield or bracket that must transfer.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I compare mounting ears, nose length, gear, and solenoid clocking old-against-new before the old starter leaves my hands. A solenoid clocked wrong means the harness won't reach — and I'm not making a second trip.

5

Install and torque the replacement starter

Fit the replacement starter to the bellhousing, hand-start mounting bolts, and tighten evenly to manufacturer spec. Reinstall any alignment dowel, bracket, or heat shield. Reconnect the solenoid trigger wire and B+ cable on clean, tight terminals; don't overtighten the stud.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I fit the starter to the bellhousing and hand-start every bolt before any tightening, working them down evenly to spec. The alignment dowel goes back in first — skip it and the starter sits crooked and chews the flywheel.

6

Reconnect the battery and verify cranking

Reconnect the negative battery cable, reinstall shields and intake parts, and check wiring is clear of moving or hot components. Crank from a safe position; it should turn over smoothly without grinding. If the symptom remains, recheck diagnosis and wiring.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Replacing the starter when a weak battery, corroded cable, poor ground, fuse, relay, or neutral-safety circuit caused the no-crank condition
  • • Failing to disconnect the negative battery cable before removing the B+ cable
  • • Dropping the starter or cross-threading mounting bolts
  • • Mixing up the main battery cable and solenoid trigger wire or leaving either connection loose