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2015–2024 Land Rover Discovery Sport

2015-2024 Land Rover Discovery Sport — Replace Fuel Injector

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 2-3 hours $375 DIY 2 views

Save $325 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $700

Quick answer: Replace Fuel Injector on a 2015–2024 Land Rover Discovery Sport is rated Advanced and takes about 2-3 hours. You'll need 9 tools for this job, and parts cost about $375. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$375.04
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Fuel Injector — $319.34
Fuel Injector Seal — $5.70
Fuel Injector Connector LR116490 $50.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Relieve fuel pressure and disconnect the battery

Work cold with no sparks or open flame. Relieve fuel pressure via the service port or the manual's procedure, then disconnect the negative battery cable. Wear gloves and eye protection; keep a class-B extinguisher nearby.

2

Access the fuel rail and injectors

Remove the engine cover and any intake ducting blocking the fuel rail. Unplug each injector connector and label them by cylinder. Place towels under the rail to catch residual fuel.

3

Remove the fuel rail and old injector

Unbolt the fuel rail, lift it evenly with the injectors, and pull the faulty injector from the rail or head. Cap open ports immediately. Note O-ring positions on the nozzle and rail ends.

4

Transfer clips and lubricate new O-rings

Compare the new injector to the old one. Install new O-rings lightly lubricated with clean engine oil or the specified assembly lube — never petroleum jelly on some designs. Transfer any retainer clips.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I've learned: petroleum jelly swells certain O-ring materials — use clean engine oil or the assembly lube the kit calls for. A swollen O-ring nicks on install and you'll be chasing a leak by Friday.

5

Reinstall the injector and rail

Seat the injector fully into the rail and head, reinstall the rail bolts evenly to the specified torque, and reconnect each connector until it clicks. Refit vacuum lines and covers.

6

Repressurize, leak-check, and verify idle

Reconnect the battery and cycle the key to ON a few times (without starting) to pressurize the rail. Check every O-ring and rail feed for seepage before starting. Start up, confirm a smooth idle, and clear injector codes after a short drive.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Don't skip the key-cycle leak check. Fuel spraying onto a hot exhaust is how engine bays catch fire — I've seen a pinhole seep turn into a barbecue in seconds.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Not relieving fuel system pressure before starting the repair
  • • Failing to disconnect the vehicle's battery before working on electrical components
  • • Using incorrect torque specifications when installing new injectors
  • • Not properly cleaning the injector seats, leading to poor sealing and potential leaks
  • • Reinstalling injectors into the same cylinders without resetting the fuel correction values, which can cause engine knocking
  • • Neglecting to program the new injectors into the vehicle's Powertrain Control Module (PCM) after installation