2006–2013 Mercedes-Benz R-Class
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Nov 6, 2026
Save $75 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $110
Quick answer: Engine Air Filter Replacement on a 2006–2013 Mercedes-Benz R-Class is rated Easy and takes about 20-45 minutes. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $35. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Engine air filters (pair) for 2006-2013 Mercedes-Benz R-Class; verify engine, housing shape, and VIN fitment | — | $35.00 |
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
The 3.5L M272 V6 uses TWO engine air filters — one per side; both get changed (filter set A2730940404). Engine off, bay cool. Gather 13mm, E9, and T25 sockets plus a flat screwdriver, and compare both new filters to the old ones before starting.
Remove the moulding (four 13mm bolts, rubber sealing strip, E9 Torx bolt) and lift it away. Pop the engine cover off its mounts to expose left and right air filter housings joined by the air manifold — don't yank; the plastic mounts are brittle.
I've trained my ears for this one: Those plastic mounts go brittle with age and heat — support the cover with both hands when you pop it off. A snapped mount means the cover rattles forever.
Remove the oil filler cap and collar. Loosen the manifold's clamp and each housing clamp, then release each MAF plug — handle gently, never the wiring. Lift the manifold assembly out. Undo the left housing's two bolts and lift the filter body away.
Split the filter body (four T25 screws). Note the old filter's orientation; wipe the housing clean. Fit the new A2730940404 filter the same way, seal flat — don't force a fit. Rejoin the body with the T25 screws by hand; they snap in plastic.
Those T25 screws thread straight into plastic — I've seen guys zip them in with a driver and snap every one. Hand-tight is plenty.
Repeat on the right housing, then refit the air manifold with all clamps tight. Click both MAF plugs home; refit the filler cap, cover, and moulding. Start up and listen for a whistling intake leak at idle — both banks idling smoothly, no warnings.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
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