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2010–2024 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter

2010-2024 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter — Engine Oil & Filter Change

By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧 Moderate 30-60 minutes $57 DIY

Save $63 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $120

Quick answer: Engine Oil & Filter Change on a 2010–2024 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter is rated Moderate and takes about 30-60 minutes. You'll need 2 tools for this job, and parts cost about $57. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$57.00
Oil spec 3.0L V6 diesel (OM642)
Capacity 13.7 qt with filter Viscosity 0W-30, 0W-40 (alt: 5W-30, 5W-40) Spec MB 229.51
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Engine Oil (0W-30 or 0W-40) — $45.00
Correct engine oil filter and drain-plug washer for 2010-2024 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter — $12.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm the diesel specs — this is a big oil change

The 2010-2024 Mercedes-Benz Sprinter's most common US engine is the OM642 3.0L V6 turbo diesel, and it drinks oil: 13 LITERS with a filter change. Use 0W-30 or 0W-40 meeting MB-Approval 229.51 or 229.52 (low-ash, to protect the diesel particulate filter). Get the cartridge filter (OEM 642-180-00-09, e.g. MANN HU821X), a new copper crush washer for the drain plug, a 14+ quart drain pan, and a funnel. (4-cylinder diesel and 2.0L gas models differ — confirm in the manual.)

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Thirteen liters is the Sprinter's whole personality — and with the DPF, I never touch anything but the 229.51 or 229.52 low-ash spec. Wrong oil here clogs the particulate filter, and that's a bill nobody wants.

2

Warm up and make the tall van safe

Park on level ground, set the parking brake, and chock the wheels. Lay out the filter, the crush washer, and your tools — with 13 liters to handle, you want everything within reach before the plug comes out.

3

Drain all 13 liters

Position the large drain pan under the oil pan, loosen the drain plug, and remove it by hand. The OM642 takes a while to drain fully, so be patient — several minutes at least. Diesel oil comes out black even when healthy, so do not judge the oil's condition by color alone. Always fit a NEW copper crush washer on the drain plug at reinstall; the washer is a one-time seal and reusing it invites drips.

4

Replace the cartridge filter

The OM642's cartridge housing is on top of the engine — open the hood and locate it. Loosen the cap, lift it out with the old element, and discard the old cartridge and O-rings. Fit the new O-rings from the filter kit with a film of fresh oil, press the new cartridge into the cap until it seats, and thread the cap back on snugly. Wipe the housing area clean so any seepage is easy to spot.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I seat the new O-rings with just a film of fresh oil and thread that cap on snug — the OM642 housing is plastic and it doesn't forgive gorilla torque. Cross-threading this cap turns a cheap service into a parts hunt.

5

Refill 13 liters, verify, and reset the service indicator

Pour in 13 liters of MB 229.51/229.52 0W-30 or 0W-40 through a funnel and reinstall the fill cap. Inspect the drain plug and housing for leaks. Reset the service indicator through the cluster and log the mileage and date.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

I pour all thirteen liters, then eyeball the plug and housing for weeps before I touch the cluster menu. Resetting the service indicator is the last step — it doesn't mean anything if the fill itself isn't right yet.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Using the wrong viscosity, capacity, or filter
  • • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
  • • Reusing a crushed drain-plug washer or leaving the old filter gasket stuck
  • • Over-tightening the filter or drain plug
  • • Starting the engine without first verifying oil was added