2004–2009 Nissan Quest
By Tom Becker ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Nov 6, 2026
Save $335 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450
Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2004–2009 Nissan Quest is rated Advanced and takes about 4–5 hours. You'll need 7 tools for this job, and parts cost about $115. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name | Part Number | Price | Buy |
|---|---|---|---|
| Correct spark plug set for the gasoline/ICE engine in 2004-2009 Nissan Quest; verify engine, heat range, gap, and VIN fitment | — | $115.00 | |
| Coil-boot seals or ignition coils only if inspection finds damage Optional | — | $35.00 | |
| Upper intake manifold gaskets | — | — |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Follow these steps carefully
Every Quest from 2004 to 2009 uses the same transversely mounted 3.5-liter VQ35DE V6, and the transverse layout is what makes this job long: the three front-bank plugs are wide open, but the three rear-bank plugs sit directly under the upper intake manifold.
The front bank needs no intake work: unplug the three coil connectors, remove each coil's single bolt, and pull the coils out.
I wear gloves for chemical work. Brake fluid and coolant are nasty stuff you don't want on skin. I work with the service manual open, not from memory. Memory is confident and wrong; the manual is right.
Remove the engine cover, air intake ducting, and throttle-body ductwork. Disconnect the vacuum hoses and sensors from the upper intake — most are 10mm fittings — and label everything with tape. Unbolt the throttle body (four bolts) and the EGR pipe hardware, then remove the bolts and nuts holding the intake collector. The manifold is built in three sections: you remove the middle collector piece entirely and loosen the rear piece, leaving the lower runners bolted to the heads.
With the collector out of the way, the three rear coils and plugs are finally exposed. Unplug each coil connector, remove the coil bolts, and pull the coils straight up.
Blow debris out of every plug well, then remove all six plugs with a spark plug socket and long extensions. Read the old plugs as you go: the rear bank tends to run slightly hotter, so compare front to rear. Check the gap on each new plug against the value on your under-hood emissions sticker or owner's manual with a wire-type gauge, and start every plug by hand to avoid cross-threading the aluminum heads.
Thread each new plug in by hand until fully engaged, then snug it an additional quarter to half turn to seat the washer — never heave on the ratchet with aluminum heads. Seat the coils, snug their bolts, and reconnect every connector.
Reconnect the throttle body, EGR pipe, vacuum hoses, sensors, and intake ducting using your labels, then refit the engine cover. Reconnect the battery and start the engine. Let it idle for a few minutes while you watch for a check-engine light — a vacuum leak from a pinched intake gasket will set lean codes, so double-check the manifold bolts if the idle hunts.
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
2004–2009
2004–2009
2004–2009
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