Quick answer: Brake Pad Replacement on a 2011–2017 Nissan Quest is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $205. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Front or rear brake pad set for 2011-2017 Nissan Quest; verify axle, brake package, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Replacement pad hardware or wear sensor only if the kit requires it |
— |
$25.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm axle, parts, and brake condition
This guide covers the FRONT axle: single-piston floating caliper on a vented rotor with abutment hardware clips. Confirm pads match the front axle (front and rear differ), inspect for scoring, and compare rotor thickness to the minimum stamped on the rotor hat.
2
Lift and secure the vehicle
Park on level ground, set the parking brake (it holds the rear), and chock the rear wheels. Loosen the lug nuts, raise the front, and support this heavy minivan on high-capacity jack stands under the front subframe — never work under the jack alone.
3
Remove the caliper and old pads
Remove the 17mm caliper bolts and lift the caliper off; hang it from the strut so the hose carries no weight. Pull the old pads and hardware — two 19mm bolts remove the bracket if rotors are due. Inspect guide pins, boots, and flex hose.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
I check the guide pins on every Quest brake job — a sticking pin shows up as one pad worn wedge-shaped. If a pin doesn't slide smoothly, clean it and regrease before reassembly, or you'll be redoing the job.
4
Install pads and hardware
Clean the bracket lands to bare metal. Install new hardware clips and grease the shims and guide pins. Slide the pads into the bracket. Open the reservoir, then press the piston back with a C-clamp and an old pad, watching the fluid level.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker
On these heavy Quests, I always grease under the hardware clips, not just the pad shims — rust builds up under the clip, lifts it, and drags the pad. That under-clip film is what keeps the pads sliding freely instead of wearing tapered.
5
Torque, pump, and bed in
Torque the caliper bolts to ~20-25 ft-lbs (verify against service data). Torque lug nuts star-pattern to ~90 ft-lbs (check the owner's manual). Pump the pedal until firm, check fluid level, and bed with moderate stops from 40 mph — avoid hard stops for 150-200 miles.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Changing only one pad or mixing pad sets on an axle
- • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
- • Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose
- • Forcing a seized piston or ignoring a leaking caliper
- • Skipping final lug and caliper torque or the bedding procedure