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2014–2020 Nissan Rogue

2014-2020 Nissan Rogue - Spark Plug Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 22, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 60-90 minutes $48 DIY

Save $212 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $260

Quick answer: Spark Plug Replacement on a 2014–2020 Nissan Rogue is rated Advanced and takes about 60-90 minutes. You'll need 6 tools for this job, and parts cost about $48. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$48.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Iridium spark plugs for Nissan Rogue (verify engine and heat range) — $48.00
Spark plug boot grease (small tube, optional) Optional — $8.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm engine and plug fitment

It takes four NGK DILKAR7B11 Laser Iridium plugs (stock 1406), gapped to 0.044 inches (1.1mm). Scan for misfire codes (P0300-P0304) first and note the cylinder; on the QR25DE a single-cylinder miss with good compression is the plug or its individual coil than anything deeper.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I do this every single time: Scan for misfire codes (P0300-P0304) first and note the cylinder; on the QR25DE a single-cylinder miss with good compression is usually the plug or its individual coil rather than anything deeper.

2

Cool and expose the plugs

Let the 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue cool completely — the QR25DE has an aluminum head. Remove the plastic engine cover to expose the four coil-on-plug units in a row on the valve cover. Disconnect the negative battery terminal with a 10mm wrench before unplugging any coils.

3

Remove the ignition coils

Press the release tab on each coil connector and unplug it, remove the 10mm coil hold-down bolts, and pull each coil straight up with a gentle twist to break the boot seal. Line the four coils up in order on a clean rag.

4

Remove and install plugs

Loosen each old plug with a 14mm thin-wall spark plug socket (the DILKAR-series plugs use a 14mm hex, not the usual 5/8-inch) and a 6-inch extension, keeping the socket straight in the deep wells. Compare each new NGK DILKAR7B11 to the old plug: same 12mm thread, reach and heat range. The new plugs come pre-gapped to 0.044 inches — verify with a wire gauge but never pry on the fine iridium tip. Thread each plug in by hand for several turns until it seats, then torque to the spec in your owner's manual. Install them dry: NGK's trivalent thread plating needs no anti-seize, which would over-torque the small threads.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I've been burned by this before: The new plugs come pre-gapped to 0.044 inches — verify with a wire gauge but never pry on the fine iridium tip.

5

Reconnect and verify

Smear a thin film of dielectric grease inside each coil boot only — rubber, never the plug — to keep moisture out and ease the next change. Push each coil firmly onto its plug, torque the 10mm hold-down bolts snug, and reconnect every locking-tab connector with a click. Refit the intake resonator box and air duct, then the engine cover, and reconnect the negative battery terminal. Start the 2014-2020 Nissan Rogue and confirm a steady idle with no check-engine light; road-test and rescan, since a misfire that returns on one cylinder means that cylinder's coil pack is the next suspect.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

I tell every DIYer who'll listen: Smear a thin film of dielectric grease inside each coil boot only — rubber, never the plug — to keep moisture out and ease the next change.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Changing plugs on a hot engine
  • • Mixing plug part numbers or ignoring the engine-specific gap
  • • Blowing debris into the cylinder or dropping dirt into the plug well
  • • Starting the plug with a ratchet and cross-threading the aluminum head
  • • Over-torquing or using anti-seize when the plug maker does not call for it