← Back to Toyota 86 Guides

2017–2020 Toyota 86

2017-2020 Toyota 86 — Brake Pad Replacement

By Ray Delgado ✓ Certified Mechanic · Published Sep 21, 2026 · Updated Oct 14, 2026

🔧🔧🔧 Advanced 1-3 hours $205 DIY

Save $245 by doing it yourself! Shop cost: $450

Quick answer: Brake Pad Replacement on a 2017–2020 Toyota 86 is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $205. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.

Quick Video Tutorial

Parts You Need

Total Cost
$205.00
Part Name Part Number Price Buy
Front or rear brake pad set for 2017-2020 Toyota 86; verify axle, brake package, and VIN fitment — $180.00
Replacement pad hardware or wear sensor only if the kit requires it — $25.00

About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.

💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping

Step-by-Step Instructions

Follow these steps carefully

1

Confirm axle, parts, and brake condition

Sliding single-piston front calipers, same as the BRZ. Performance Package Brembos? Use a different procedure. Confirm pad shape and inspect rotors: at this weight, rotors usually outlast two pad sets unless scored or below minimum thickness. Note wear indicator positions.

2

Lift and secure the vehicle

Park level, brake set, chock wheels. Crack lugs loose, then jack the front crossmember or pinch-welds onto stands with a low-profile jack — the 86 sits low. Never under a jack alone. Pull the wheel.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Before retracting the piston, I pop the hood and check the reservoir — if it's at MAX, I turkey-baster some fluid out. Pushing the piston back forces fluid up, and brake fluid on paint is a bad day.

3

Remove the caliper and old pads

Remove the 14mm slide-pin bolts (both, or just the lower to pivot). Hang the caliper on a wire hook; don't strain the hose. Slide the pads out, noting shim and clip arrangement. Doing rotors? Remove the two 17mm bracket bolts.

4

Install pads and hardware

Retract the piston with a C-clamp or spreader, an old pad on the face. Pull pins, wipe grease, check boots for tears. Coat pins with silicone grease, never petroleum. Clean bracket lands, fit new clips, seat pads, shims correctly oriented.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Tom Becker

Torn boots are the number-one cause of seized pins on daily-driven 86s. If I see a torn boot, the pins get cleaned and re-greased before anything else goes back together — skipping that guarantees uneven pad wear.

5

Torque, pump, and bed in

Torque 14mm bolts to 19 ft-lb. Bracket off? Torque 17mm bolts to 59 ft-lb. Torque lugs to 120 N·m (89 ft-lb) star pattern. Pump the pedal firm. Bed pads: moderate stops 50-60 mph to 20, then cool-down cruise without braking.

🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado

Nineteen foot-pounds on those slide-pin bolts feels like nothing — if I go by feel I always overtighten them. The torque wrench isn't optional here.

All Done!

Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • • Changing only one pad or mixing pad sets on an axle
  • • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
  • • Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose
  • • Forcing a seized piston or ignoring a leaking caliper
  • • Skipping final lug and caliper torque or the bedding procedure