Quick answer: Brake Pad Replacement on a 2008–2011 Audi A5 is rated Advanced and takes about 1-3 hours. You'll need 5 tools for this job, and parts cost about $205. This guide walks you through the full job step by step, including the mistakes to avoid.
| Part Name |
Part Number |
Price |
Buy |
| Front or rear brake pad set for 2008-2011 Audi A5; verify axle, brake package, and VIN fitment |
— |
$180.00 |
|
| Replacement pad hardware or wear sensor only if the kit requires it |
— |
$25.00 |
|
About prices: shown prices are typical retail averages and change frequently; cheaper alternatives may be available. Confirm the current price before buying.
💡 Pro tip: Order all parts at once to save on shipping
Step-by-Step Instructions
Follow these steps carefully
1
Confirm axle, parts, and brake condition
This guide covers the FRONT axle of the 2008-2011 Audi A5, which uses disc brakes with single-piston floating front caliper — a single-piston floating caliper on a 320 mm front rotor (2.0T models; 3.2L cars use 345 mm rotors). Buy front pads for your exact trim plus new pad fitting hardware, brake cleaner, and silicone brake grease. Before ordering, match the new pads against the old ones. Check the master-cylinder reservoir: if fluid is near the MAX line, siphon a little out now so retracting the pistons later doesn't push fluid over the top. Measure rotor thickness while you're in there and compare against the minimum stamped on the rotor hat. The retaining spring must snap fully back into both caliper ears — a half-seated spring rattles and can walk out.
2
Lift and secure the vehicle
Park level, chock the rear wheels, set the brake. Break the front lug nuts loose on the ground, jack the front at the factory points onto rated stands — never under a jack alone. Remove the wheel (17 mm socket).
3
Remove the caliper and old pads
With the wheel off, Pop the large anti-rattle retaining spring off the face of the caliper with a flat screwdriver — control it, it can fly. Then remove the two 13 mm caliper bolts and slide the caliper off the rotor. Hang the caliper from the strut or spring with a wire hook the moment it's free — never let it hang by the brake hose, and don't touch the brake pedal while the caliper is off. Pull the old pads out and inspect the rotor face, the slide pins and boots, and the piston dust seal for tears or leaks.
4
Install pads and hardware
CRITICAL FITMENT CHECK: the B8 A5 came with TRW or ATE front calipers and the pads are NOT interchangeable. Match the new pads to the old ones (and to the caliper brand stamped on the caliper) before installing. Transfer the wear sensor to the new pad that has the sensor pocket. Retract the piston(s) with steady, even pressure — a C-clamp or spreader pressing through an old pad keeps everything square — while keeping an eye on the reservoir level. Keep grease off the pad friction faces and the rotor; a final wipe of the rotor with brake cleaner takes off any fingerprints.
🔧 Mechanic's note — Ray Delgado
TRW versus ATE is the detail that bites people. I check the brand stamped on the caliper before ordering pads — the two shapes don't interchange, and opened pads don't go back.
5
Torque, pump, and bed in
Torque the 13 mm caliper bolts to the Audi spec in your service information. Refit the wheel and lower the vehicle, then tighten the lug nuts fully in a star pattern with the tire on the ground. Pump the brake pedal several times until it goes firm — the pistons have to travel out to meet the new, thicker pads. Check the reservoir level and top up with the correct DOT fluid if needed. Bed the pads with a series of moderate stops from around town speeds, allowing cooling time between them, and avoid hard stops for the first couple hundred miles.
All Done!
Test your repair before closing everything up. If something doesn't work right, double-check your steps.
⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid
- • Changing only one pad or mixing pad sets on an axle
- • Working under a vehicle supported only by a jack
- • Letting the caliper hang from the brake hose
- • Forcing a seized piston or ignoring a leaking caliper
- • Skipping final lug and caliper torque or the bedding procedure
